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Nov 9, 2011 10:16 AM

Tags: #graphics #gray #scale #asus #accuracy #de #monitors #dell #eizo
  Latest reply: Hudechrome, Dec 1, 2011 10:40 AM
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Nov 29, 2011 5:42 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    Hudechrome wrote:

     

    Dreamcolor, although expensive, is still less expensive than high end Eizos

    Not here. It's 24", and calibrator is extra. List price is significantly higher than the Eizo CG245; the one with the built-in colorimeter. And it's way beyond the CG 243.

     

    The Dreamcolor is an interesting beast. And coming from hp, of all places. The next one down is the LP2475W; in the Dell U2410-class.

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Nov 29, 2011 7:30 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    Hudechrome wrote:

    .....

    A factor to consider is exactly how the led's are powered series or parallel? In series, one led goes out and you lose a bunch more.

    ....

     

    I can make a guess.  LED light output is proportional to current. Led current is exponentially related to voltage. The consequence of these facts is that the only practical way to drive LEDs is with a current source - not a voltage source. For luminance uniformity without tweeking you want the same current going through the diodes, that is, hooking the diodes in series. There is a practical problem, however. Hooked in series the rail voltage of your current source goes up with each diode added. Just about the worst thing you can do as a subsystem designer is to drop another regulated power supply voltage demand on the system. So they will almost certainly stick with whatever the existing high voltage is in the system, which is typically 12 or 15 volts. This would allow putting 3 or 4 LEDs in series so you wind up with multiple series or a series/parallel arrangement.

     

    Modern LEDs, which have gone through a decent burn-in test have a MTBF much in excess of the cumulitative hours of use expected of any monitor. Thus LEDs in series is not really a concern.

     

    Paulo

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Nov 29, 2011 9:04 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    Hudechrome wrote:

     

    An LED is a diode, and as such, has a forward  voltage drop, somewhere around .35 to .6V, depending on materials.That voltage is steady,

     

    While an LED is a diode, it is not a silicon or germanium diode, which have low forward voltages as you mention. LEDs are typically made from III-IV materials and the forward voltages are in the approximate range of 2V to 4V depending on color and specific materials used.

     

    While this is interesting stuff, it is a bit esoteric for this forum and probably sleep inducing for many.

     

    Paulo

     
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  • Noel Carboni
    23,514 posts
    Dec 23, 2006
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    Nov 29, 2011 9:40 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    Many small LED flashlights have quite sophisticated DC to DC converters nowadays.

     

    -Noel

     
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  • Noel Carboni
    23,514 posts
    Dec 23, 2006
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    Nov 29, 2011 11:23 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    There are whole forums full of tweakers working to get the most out of LED flashlights...  A while back I followed someone who went by the handle "MillerMods" and who was pioneering some new circuit designs, so you could probably find some of his stuff via a web search.  I bought some of his stuff back then, but the commercial companies have since exceeded his efforts.

     

    My favorite pocket LED flashlight, which I carry at the moment, is a Fenix LD10 Q5, which on a single NiMH AA cell puts out 120 lumens in turbo mode.  It is now somewhat old technology, though...  There are MUCH brighter models, including those that run off slightly larger cells that put out much more current (e.g., laptop type 18650 cells).

     

    -Noel

     
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  • Noel Carboni
    23,514 posts
    Dec 23, 2006
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    Nov 29, 2011 12:08 PM   in reply to Hudechrome

    What was it, 2 years ago I first suggested you upgrade to LCD? 

     

    Hudechrome wrote:

     

    That red gun is going south!

     

    I know the tan you've been getting from all the x-ray radiation probably looks nice, but it's time to move on! 

     

    -Noel

     
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  • Noel Carboni
    23,514 posts
    Dec 23, 2006
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    Nov 29, 2011 1:30 PM   in reply to Hudechrome

    Actually, I've found, through my own experimentation, that it's a LACK of cash flow that's worse. 

     

    Perhaps you should set up a web site to sell fine art prints...  Seems to me I've seen some nice stuff you've done.

     

    -Noel

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Nov 30, 2011 6:45 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    I've taken the Eizo S2243, freshly arrived, for a spin around the corner, kicking the tires, so to speak (why do people do that? Are they checking if the wheels are about to fall off?)

     

    I was very interested in how the PVA panel behaved, but there was no need to worry. As for the dreaded "black crush" there's hardly any. There is a perceptible shift in the deep shadow values as you move your head across the screen, but considerably less than the old Eizo, and it seems the head-on view is correct. Comparing to the IPS panel of the 2335 showed no significant differences.

     

    The Easy-Pix calibrator works well. It has fewer options than Color Eyes Display Pro, but it seems accurate enough, and it's nice to know that it bypasses the video card and goes straight to the monitor (and it does make a profile for Photoshop to use). There was just a slight hint of color banding after first calibration, gone after second, which goes to show how important warm-up is before you calibrate.

     

    The EX-1 puck is just a rebranded Spyder3, which is known to perform well with wide gamut. I think I can learn to love wide gamut - proofing to ISO Coated took on a whole new meaning since it is covered 100%. Adobe RGB coverage is 95.

     

    Oh, and panel uniformity is excellent <relief>.

     

    All in all, a very fine monitor. Time to get to work

     
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  • Noel Carboni
    23,514 posts
    Dec 23, 2006
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    Nov 30, 2011 9:31 AM   in reply to twenty_one

    art by accident wrote:

     


    kicking the tires, so to speak (why do people do that? Are they checking if the wheels are about to fall off?)

     

    DO people actually kick tires on cars?  It's a descriptive metaphor but I can't honestly say I've ever seen anyone in real life actually do it.  If they do, I suppose one day they might find a tire that blows up (or a wheel that falls off)...  That won't be good for the sale of that particular car (or the kicker's foot). 

     

    Not long ago a friend of mine, who has a VERY good relationship with his Cadillac dealer, was offered a chance to drive a new CTS-V model for a day.  He didn't kick the tires, but he DID actually take the car to a drag strip!  He managed a respectable 13 second quarter mile time, and he says the car has even more in it.  He thinks he'll be buying it...

     

    -Noel

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Nov 30, 2011 11:00 AM   in reply to Noel Carboni

    They do! Not exactly kicking, but placing the foot on the upper half of the wheel and...giving it a push, just enough to make the car rock a little bit. The aim of this test seems to be that if the thing doesn't fall apart instantly, it's passed. Quality control on a very basic level.

     

    Take a closer look next time a congregation of taxi drivers assess a new car...hmmm...well, looks sturdy enough...

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Dec 1, 2011 9:07 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    Hudechrome wrote:

     

    It's not available here.

     

    Amazing because it's been on the market in Europe for over a year.

    I guess it depends on what you mean by "here". You can certainly get one from B&H Photo in New York City:

    Capture2.PNG

    You might also look at the SX2262W at about 1100 USD

     

    Paulo

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Dec 1, 2011 9:54 AM   in reply to Hudechrome

    By the way, since you have previously mentioned both LED backlights and your "white" LED flashlight it may be useful to know, if you do not already, that there are no true white LEDs - at least in commercial production.  They are blue LEDs witht a yellow phosphor on top. While that makes it look somewhat white you will find a blue spike in the spectrum (good) plus a broad contribution in the longer wavelengths (not so good). That is why you do not get colors as saturated when "white" LEDs are used in backlights.

     

    Paulo

     
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