Image > Adjustments > Match Color
is an options, but may not provide sarisfactory results.
Other options would be Curves Layers (possibly set to Blend Mode Color) and using the gray eyedropper on a piece of fur that’s supposed to be neutral, Selective Color Layers, …
Depends how much time (and accuaracy) you want to invest in color corection. I would use Curves, Selective Color etc. with masks.
For quick i can suggest 2 ways for now.
1. First what comes in mind is Match Colors (Image/Adjustments)
a) Make layer copy.
b) Apply Match Color with Source koala which color you want.
c) Move original layer above matched and set it to Luminosity.
That's how it looks:
Again, they need a little adjustments for my eye but for quick it's good.
2. a) Take Koala 'skin' sample and remember it.
b) With Curves set Midtone target color to remember color and click on more or less equal lightness on koala's skin. With mask restore places which color you don't want to affect.
And again, not perfect but all examples was very quick and without much 'thinking'. So for 'fast and furious' result is normal
The new layer and match color method of senior worked great on this image, I thought but then I saw that I had used a similar image in the series with the same problem.
I then thought I'd try another image (which I realized after was the one I put as an example) but I didn't get the same good result. .
I tried the camera raw white balance first, and then the same procedure with a similar image from the same series but when I tired with this, the light areas on the koala were totally burning ou, and the color didn't change as in the first. It this because I did the camera raw thing first? Your example is just how it worked for me with the other similar image.
Regarding the other post, I don't see where the auto color changed the color cast significantly.
Assuming folks in this thread are trying to achieve a neutral gray color in the Koala's fur, it's kind of interesting that the results are coming out pretty different from person to person. There are of course artistic differences but I wonder if monitor calibration is also playing a part. Station_two and I seem to be on about the same wavelength.
In Photoshop proper, you can do Image - Adjust - Curves, click the "gray point" (white balance) dropper, and click on things that are supposed to be neutral colored. You can also do Image - Adjust - Color Balance and tweak the highlights, midtones, and shadows to taste. Finally, you can adjust hue and saturation of specific colors, for example with the Image - Adjust - Hue/Saturation, which can help take care of the overly green leaves and too saturated reds/browns.
Doing just these things (starting by sampling the fur above the nose), then normalizing the exposure values so both images are roughly the same brightness, I got these results:
…Regarding the other post, I don't see where the auto color changed the color cast significantly.
Your monitor profile is hosed, or you have a worthless monitor, or you're seriously vision impaired… or all of the above!
regarding the 3 reasons by station 2:
Both in the example, and when I tried it, it still appears to have a purplish cast to me.
In contrast, I see a great difference in the examples by senior, where he totally reversed the color cast in one and gave it to the other.
Perhaps the term significant is relative.
I much appreciate all the offers of help regardless.
Thanks to all.
I looked at this grey image on 3 images. On my laptop and main PC monitor, it looks pretty neutral, though the laptop seems a slight purplish tint and the PC possibly slightly greenish tinge.
On my 2nd PC monitor,which I don't edit on, it looks noticeably greenish.
it still appears to have a purplish cast to me.
Robirdman, if the various efforts to create a more or less neutral gray koala here come off as purplish to you, then it seems likely your monitor is misadjusted / miscalibrated. I suspect that's what the guys leaving the several brusque remarks were trying to imply.
Something you can do is sample color in Photoshop using one of several methods - e.g., the Eyedropper Tool or Color Picker, or just hovering over colors and looking in the Info panel. If the numbers say something like 36, 36, 36 that should be gray. If it looks "purplish" to you then your monitor should be questioned.
You didn't answer my question above: Does the gradient I posted look "purplish"? EDIT: Yes you did, you were posting at the same time I was.
I recalibrated my monitor using Eye 1 Match. It did need some adjustment, luminace was high. I redid it again and it appears in very close agreement with the target values for 6500 in the settings.
I wonder about the second monitor, which someone recently gave me as they no longer needed it. I doubt that it was ever calibrated and the 3 colors are all set to 100. On that one, the Koala and card definitely look green. I don't know if I can calibrate the 2nd monitor to have a different profile. I don't think the calibrator detects it when put on it. I don't use it for editing but wonder how close I could get them.
Well I didn't get very far, as I saw no settings tab when I went to control Panel>display in Win7.
However I did see how Windows could calibrate my second monitor ( which I don't use for editing though) which was far from neutral and now looks more so than my Eye 1 match calibrated main monitor.
I was trying another image to practice on some of these techniques and it seems very recalcitrant to get rid of the purplish tin on the snoutt. Match color makes it much worse, Auto color does too. I can't find any neutral grays or whites to try the eyedropper techniques. I can't seem to find the right approach trying curves, hue, balance etc. Any suggestions?
Station,: Obviously you know what you are doing while I am trying to learn. As I could see there was a color cast, I don't think my perception is flawed but my interpretation of what to call it.
Your result lacks the tinge on either of my monitors.
When I go to curves and click the white point in various light places my own results still have the cast, so where are you clicking the white point?
This is a more challenging image than your other ones.
Keep in mind that there actually IS some cyan/blue expected in white colored things - think about all the blue in the sky reflecting on things. Try not to focus on getting ALL of the cyan/blue out, but to remove enough of it that it's not distracting. Note, for example the bluish color in the sheep's coat, which looks pretty unnatural.
The color in this image is oversaturated from where I sit. I think one path to start with this may be through Image - Adjust - Hue/Saturation and specifically reduce the saturation of some of the overly strong colors. Image - Adjust - Color Balance is another way to bring things better in line.
Just to show a possible goal for this image... Note that this was not completed with just a few simple operations, and not all of the operations were performed on the entire image.
…When I go to curves and click the white point in various light places my own results still have the cast, so where are you clicking the white point?
I did not use curves or levels. I opened the image in Adobe Camera Raw and used the white balance tool somewhere on the bridge of the nose.
It took literally a second or two, including opening the image, fixing the white point and saving it. The image is not really worth investing more than one or two seconds on it. No offense meant, just a factual observation.
If you're just beginning to learn, try the easiest, most obvious route first.
I like Noel's interpretation, except that the eyes appear dead and the snout still appears cyan/bluish. (Note to Noel: I thought it was a hornless goat. Go figure!) Interestingly, the Chinese use a single word in Mandarin to designate sheep and or goat, 羊, sometimes differentiating goat in rural areas with a slight addition: 山羊.
I just guessed at "sheep" to be honest.
I agree that there's still a bit of cyan/blue on the nose. When I work I tend to be conservative about how extreme I make image changes. I've less (recent) experience working on film images than digital.
Noel, that was a very good result.
I was seeing if I could get something similar, and the tip of reducing hue and saturation inspecific colors was a very useful tip.
I first tried station 2's route and had a somewhat yellowish/orange cast that I also reduced using that method.
As to the quality of the image ctitique, that is unimportant as compared to using it as a learning tool for my purposes.
It is actually a Mouflon Sheep, an exotic that may found in the wild in parts of the US, such as Davis Mts. SP, Texas. Sheeps and Goats are closely related, both being in the family Bovidae, which also includes Cattle, Antelope, and bison among others. It is the largest family of the order Artiodactylidae (even toed ungulates).
Thanks again to all who helped me learn some useful things.