One of the reasons that I carry a 64 degree Lob Wedge, is to "clear the big green frog."
Some years ago, playing in a member-guest, I came up short of an heavily elevated green. It was about 12' above where my ball had come to rest, and there was a wall of railroad ties, only about 4' from my ball. The other team began laughing, as it seemed that I had to declare an unplayable, and loose a stroke to them. I walked down to my ball with that Lob Wedge, opened the face, opened my stance, and smote the ball a mightly lick, stopping my followthrough, short of those railroad ties. The ball went almost straight into the air about 20' high. It came straight down, landed softly, and rolled toward the pin - easy tap-in par. My partner got to look our competition in the eyes and laugh the last time. There are times when the Mickelson Flop is worthwhile.
Hunt
hehe.. must be nice to have all those clubs.. I got a pitching wedge...and not even a sand wedge.. I go from 9 iron to pitching wedge, and then putter...that's it in my bag of tricks.
However, one can do many crazy things with pitching wedge I am discovering... by choking up on it and opening face and position of ball when whacked...and so on..
I do have to say that in the rough it would be nice to have something a bit heavier...cause if I take a chunk of grass my picthing wedge is not heavy enough to know for certain the face isn't gonna get yanked left or right etc..even with a super strong grip and arms like a gorilla.
I have a pretty old set of Lynx clubs, where the drivers are these small heads like the golf clubs dad and grandfather had...
If you are off a half inch on hitting the sweet spot you are doomed.... say goodbye to your ball or say hello to the green frog.
Barbara has a driver that looks like the head is about 2 feet long and the shaft is some kinda secret radar stealthy material, that flexes like crazy ...almost like some kinda of rubber...so the head really gets tons of momentum even without any wrist action. I guess it's carbon something or other.
those wedges with solid heads and various angles ( like your 64 degree ) look cool... I saw a bunch of various wedges at some place called 2nd swing.... must get some of those some day...and maybe new set of clubs... so I can suck less at this and see the frog less often.
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edit..ps.. am watching an old hercule perot (sp? ) masterpiece theatre thing, and checking out the pro mist and fog filters the camera guys are using... they use them a LOT... and also checking how well they keep track of that on coverage ( if used on reverse or alternate angles, etc ....you know...continuity of filter use )... is quite the exercise as some cuts are pretty fast etc...
Barbara has a driver that looks like the head is about 2 feet long and the shaft is some kinda secret radar stealthy material, that flexes like crazy ...almost like some kinda of rubber...so the head really gets tons of momentum even without any wrist action. I guess it's carbon something or other.
What I want is a driver with three little LED's in the head. Just before I swing, it will light one up, indicating that it will be hitting, say a big hook (LED on the left flashes quickly), or a swooping slice toward the green frog (LED on right flashes quickly), or perhaps the "dreaded straight ball," (middle LED lights constantly). I can ONLY hit the straight ball, when I have set up to play either a draw, or a fade, and the straight path takes the ball just OB to either the right, or left. That would be helpful as heck.
I'd also like to find a golf ball, that seeks out darkness, like INSIDE the cup. Of course, I could not play that one in Hawaii, as there are usually plenty of dark jungle, just at the edge of every fairway. I do not want a golf ball that seeks THAT out, especially as every time we play in Hawaii, it seems that the feral hogs have just given birth to a "litter" (?) of feral hoglets, and are not in a good mood. The starter ALWAYS warns us about NOT getting near the jungle. Yeah right! It's like he thinks that I am hitting my ball into the jungle on purpose, or something. I may be dumb and a duffer, but I would NEVER hit into the jungle on purpose.
On O`ahu, we often play a really tough course, Ko`olau http://www.koolaugolfclub.com/, and I stop by Costco to get 24 cheap balls. They come in a plastic jar, and only cost about $18. I always tell the starter that I will dontate every ball, that I do not loose, to their Jr. Golf program. When I come in, he always asks, "well, how did the Jrs. do today?" Usually, they get between 1 and 3 new, cheap balls. No matter how well I am playing, that course eats me alive, and then, there are ALWAYS the feral hogs. Those suckas' must breed all year long at Ko`olau! Also, I think that every fairway slopes right to the jungle, if it is not split by a 500' deep ravine!
Check out Hole # 10 on the "Course Tour," and read the "help" section. That basically goes for every hole on the course.
Hunt
That 3 Hcp. means that it is third toughest hole on the course.
If one is playing head-to-head, whether in stroke play, or match play, and using the golfer's individual Hcp., then that might be a hole where the higher Hcp. golfer gets a stroke. It depends on the differential of the individual Hcps.
Actually, it IS Jurasic Park. Some of Jurasic Park was filmed just down the way, at Kualoa Ranch on the Windward Side of O`ahu. Same exact geography. When you get into the course, you start looking over your shoulder for Velociraptors, or feral hogs!
Now, I have had to play out of goose poop, deer poop, turkey poop, alligator poop, coyote poop, hog poop, but I do not think that I have had to play out of Velociraptor poop, but could be wrong.
What that "course tour" does not show clearly, are the deep ravines. You have to hit over dozens, and many are blind on your shot. You hit a nice fairwood wood, then climb to the top of a hill, to only see that you needed another 100 yards to clear "the grand canyon." Remember the log over the ravine scene from the original King Kong? [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9drLc9s0ZY] I swear that that ravine runs through about 5 of the holes. The vines and the fog are all still there, but the log has been long gone. I think that the original used a couple of foursomes, just playing a round at Ko`olau, for stunt doubles!
Hunt
ahhh, ok....3rd toughest hole...
what the heck is match play vs stroke play ? never mind.. I can see I have to look this stuff up on google etc..
half the time it sounds more complicated than " high low baseball poker with aces wild " or something ....I never gambled on anything ( cards, horses, etc ) so I have no clue what all this stuff is about...
ahh, so no wonder it looks like jurrasic park ... yikes ! and all this time I thought the green frog was a scary obstacle...
well, the weather's been weird so maybe tomorrow I can get back out to short course ...and then try 18 holes monday...see how it goes.
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Basically, stroke play is the accumulation of strokes to play all 18 holes.
Match play is how many strokes to play EACH hole, and the number of holes won.
It's very easy on the PGA, which is almost always stroke play - how many total strokes to finish the course 4 times. There are, however, some instances with match play, such as the Accenture Match Play tournament in Tucson.
One sees a bunch of variations in the President's Cup, the Ryder Cup, etc.., and also in collegiate golf tournaments. Many amateur tournaments are also match play, but not all.
When one is playing, and scoring based on Hcp., then there is more math involved. Let's say that I have a Hcp. of 18, and you have a 10. That means that you are better, than I am, and by 8 strokes. I then get 8 holes, where I get 1 stroke over you. They would be the holes marked Hcp 1 through Hcp 8, and they are probably scattered about the course. Let's say that we both par that 3 Hcp hole at Ko`olau, but I get a stoke on it. In match play, I win the hole. In stroke play, I card a 3, or birdie.
If we both par the Hcp 10 hole, we tied ("halved the hole" in match play), and both card a 4.
Since I do not really care about betting, and only worry about my Hcp Index, when I play in a tournament, that uses that, I do not pay much attention to a hole's Hcp, other than maybe to pat myself on the back, for say a bogey on the 1 Hcp hole.
As for the analogy to various poker games, there are that many (and probably more) variations on betting on golf. I do not even pretend to understand most, and also many are the same "game," but called by a different name, depending on where you are. Also, there are "local rules," that can add new dimensions to each. If everyone wants to do such, I always just tell 'em, here's my $. When we're done, tell me if I get some back, or owe more. I'd rather smoke cigars, and think about my next shot, than try to figure out all the BS involved. I played in one league at my CC, and always won a few $'s, but have no idea how, or why. Every round was spent discussing all the variations of the rules - not of golf, but of the gambling. Then, everyone would retire to the Men's Grill (now the Mixed Grill), and spend about 4 hours arguing over who won what, and who cheated. Total waste of time. When I dropped out, I took my winnings (maybe $ 35) and donated it to the Holiday party, which I did not attend. I only care about a beautiful day, a lovely course, hitting some pure shots, and not hitting too many bad ones. A little light conversation (no economy, politics or similar allowed). If there are cigars on the course, and maybe a glass of Chard, or a brew, at the 19th Hole, all is good - whether I play well, or poorly. So long as there are some good shots, I will keep coming back.
Hunt
ahhh.. OK.... thanks for the info on stroke and match play and hcp use...
it is starting to make sense to me...
if a hcp difference of 8 is given ( as ex. above ) does player HAVE TO take them from hcp 1 through 8 of the course holes ? Or can the person pick which holes they want to take the strokes on ?? In other words, a player might be good on drives and a hard hole to play is mostly driving long distances and slight fades or whatever...and its not a hard hole to play for that player...so he might want to take a stroke on a different hole....??? Or does it have to be from 1 through 8 ??
for example, if I play that hole where the horrid slice off Tee brings me to the green frog in the next county....I do this...
a) blow air horn to let everyone know I'm about to attempt a drive ( required by course due to previous accidents )
b) slice to green frog
Now, I have become so good at getting away from that green frog and back to the correct golf course...I now attract a crowd at the frog... people want to watch and see what amazing shots I come up with to get out of there.
So I might not want to take a stroke on that hole, and instead take one on the par 3 100 yard hole that is straight ahead over a small creek. I have never been able to keep the ball out of that creek.. it's like some kind of curse or something.
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AF on olympus tg-1 camera...
I cant turn this off... the AF.. it is either spot or track or ( in the case of still photos ) I can depress shutter button half way down, lock on that subject distance and then pan etc to shot and shoot ....and get that focus.. ( could be object in foreground or whatever ).
that works OK in still photos...but when you try that stuff in movie mode...it does weird stuff...namely , it has a hard time staying with the AF setting no matter what it is... spot, tracking, or in the case of depressing shutter halfway to " lock " in that distance, I have no clue what it is trying to do in movie mode... it goes in and out of focus on that foreground object as you pan camera etc in movie mode.
Now.. I have a feeling that its big problem dealing with locking in a distance in movie mode is the camera 'moving' ( pan, tilt etc ) and the IS stuff trying to figure out what to do along with it...
So my next experiment will be putting camera on tripod and making it static, and locking in focus , and then having object move through frame ( person, whatever )..and see if it is effected by that or stays focused on object...
I hate hate hate AF ( obviously ) but by the same token if this thing actually can do something you can depend on it would be really cool...seeing as it only cost about $ 400.00 ... so far the AF is OK with still stuff, works good...in those modes ( spot, track, lock ). Its the movie stuff that is all over the place.
will keep you posted...
have to set up on tripod, focus lock, start recording, and then walk through frame ( will put on a good suit and bow tie for that )
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finished tripod test.. and its like this....
the AF does what you want pretty much when taking still images...but when you shoot video it goes to the spot AF setting basically. I don't see any way to control the focus at all when shooting video ...things in the frame ( bulk of the content and distance ) seem to want to be in focus no matter what setting you use... and it is sorta indiscriminate.... having to do with the bulk of the stuff in frame basically from the center and going outward from there.
I was gonna upload the final test to show something in foreground and then motion behind it, which was locked on the foreground focus...but you have to use your imagination cause the file is too big to deal with uploading to youtube etc. I put a lamp shade in foreground, and to keep it in focus I had to cover half the frame with it...and then it kept the focus on lampshade, while I moved behing it ( in background ) and did some stuff to see if the focus would 'change' from foreground. It stayed on the foreground, but I literally had to keep half the frame on that lamp shade... otherwise it focuses on background or just gets indiscriminate. ( motion , halfway between back and foreground etc ).
Sooo, my basic test today is to say that focus for movies with olympus tg-1 is not able to lock, spot, track or anything at all with any sense of control. It does what it wants and sucks for a movie camera unless you do really wide stuff, where everything is in "focus" and stays on the same plane of distance more or less.
Oddly enough, I dont mind this so much cause I didnt expect much to begin with... after all, I spent twice as much money on a stupid powershot s10 years ago that couldnt even shoot ANY video... so what can I complain about ??
I doubt they can update firmware to deal with movie stuff that locks in focus like it does on still images, but who knows.
There is one more test to do.. a " fish " mode for underwater..where basically the still images are locked into a certain distance ( about 5 feet or 6 feet ?? ) which I think is called " fish 2 mode " or something...this is supposed to be for really action packed fish pics underwater...where you are close to the action...
If I put the camera on that mode, and then shoot a video, maybe I can lock in that set "distance" ...and see if that sorta gives me something I can work with for the movie mode.... not exactly ideal if you ask me cause half the time I am doing this stuff it is like beer thirty and the last thing I wanna think about is fish and stuff when I am trying to shoot some world famous actor working on my documentary about killing elephants.... but such is life...
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Sooo... I got the use of a canon XL2 SD camera probably...sorta will find out on friday.
And I ordered some surgical tubing so I can build a poor man's steadicam type rig to shoot off the bow of a speed boat...and shoot close to the water surface from bow...along lake approaching the town of " Mound, MN "...
I'm looking for about 5 seconds or so of some footage to introduce this lake country around Mound for a documentary....
Then I gotta get a plane or helicopter to do a few seconds of some aerial stuff...of the same basic "introduction" to the town....but from the air.
Sooo, although I know that most broadcasters now want HD shows to buy and so on...I've only got use of this SD camera stuff right now...if all goes well on friday.
Anyone ever use the canon XL 2 before and have any suggestions re: my mouse computer and CS3...??? The people who own the camera use macs with FCP to edit...so lets not get into the platform ******** and lets try to make premiere work OK for this if possible. Thanks for any suggestions... including Jeff's tricks and Colin's tricks to make CS3 actually work OK to export quality stuff etc ...
thanks
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this is the town...and I'll be approaching from the south heading north on the lake, close to surface...like REALLY close...on my surgical tubing rig...
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scary.... dont wanna put camera in the water...to say the least...plus, how to keep it somewhat "steady" etc... but that's OK...I've done it before believe it or not with heavy cameras ( panaflex and arriflex etc )... but my question now is " can anyone actually help with using premiere pro for SD work" or what ?? Like, what's the point ??
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