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Bridge CS6  too bright

Oct 25, 2013 9:07 PM

My Bridge CS6 has suddenly become too bright.  Any fixes?

 
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 26, 2013 3:22 AM   in reply to sevenball

    Any clues?

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 26, 2013 9:11 AM   in reply to Yammer

    I hate it when the software becomes smarter than me.

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 26, 2013 3:19 PM   in reply to sevenball

    First try to reset Bridge holding down option key and choose Reset Preferences and then try again.

     

    If still no luck open a file in ACR and using the menu icon right next to the basic tab and choose "reset ACR defaults at the bottom of the pop up menu.

     

    If still in trouble provide more details about OSX version and Bridge version, which files are affected and maybe a screenshot.

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 26, 2013 5:31 PM   in reply to sevenball

    You can upload the screenshots by using the camera icon in the reply box.

     

    When you say it suddenly became too bright, how is this?  We they OK before?  What did you change?  What extension?

     

    Does it do it with all extensions?

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 27, 2013 5:09 AM   in reply to sevenball

    Which version of Camera Raw? There was a problem with an earlier version where Bridge JPEG/TIFF previews came out too bright, but that might have been with CS5 (I can't remember). The latest version for CS6 is CR 8.2.

     

    Just to check: you are generating HQ thumbnails/previews, yes?

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 27, 2013 1:46 PM   in reply to sevenball

    Select one file and with right mouse menu choose purge cache for selection and see if this changes. If yes also use menu tools / cache/ purge cache for folder.

     

    And check the ACR preferences and double check you don't have 'apply auto tone adjustments selected. If so, deselect to get rid of this problem.

     

    Using Time machine for retrieving older files is no problem but you best choose to find the files on the Time machine disk yourself instead of restarting from earlier version of Time Machine. This usually changes also a lot of prefs and settings from earlier used system. If you have updated the system and something went horrible wrong the use this method, otherwise have an admin password and dive in the folder yourself to find and copy the old files.

     

    And TimeMachine is not the best way to back up your important files and photo's, combine it with a normal back up strategy on a separate disk.

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 28, 2013 1:40 AM   in reply to sevenball

    Glad this solved your problem and no, if don't have trouble with views there is no need for purging cache at the moment.

     

     

    Don't use NIK myself but I would choose for uninstall and reinstall the NIK plug ins.

     

    Search for info before acting, here is a start:

     

    https://support.google.com/nikcollection/answer/3000951

     

    Save your custom presets by exporting them (always a good thing before updating or any other changes) and be sure to have the correct serial numbers and registration keys at hand. Then check for the latest versions on the NIK download site and install again.

     

     

     

    And for the part of retrieving original filenames:

     

    I never make a big deal out of filenames, I start with renaming on import using shot date yyyymmdd and a sequence number but check the option for the original filename being kept in exif. (you can set this as an option but I believe the original raw filename is always preserved, although not sure about this)

     

    If you need to find (for what ever reason) this previous filename is somewhere in the XMP data of the file info. Either in advanced, Raw data etc.

     

    And if this info is available there is always some one keen on writing scripts willing to help you with a script to reveal this info and use it as the new filename (there is a dedicated Bridge Scripting forum).

     

    So in case of 6000 the longest wait would be to find some one to help you and then a bit time to install the script. The running of the script is a piece of cake and does the work for you, same as batch rename in Bridge can do.

     

    Don't use LR myself that much, can't get used to the library structure and export of results. And prefer the customized UI of Bridge I have in combination with ACR and PS.

     

    I also think (personal) that combining both LR and Bridge is not the best strategy…

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 28, 2013 4:13 PM   in reply to sevenball

    I will now start using a naming system like yours with a date, I think.  I am still mulling over what will be best for me since I still shoot with all three cameras.

     

     

    I use Adobe Photodownloader for this job, not perfect but it has its pro's. You can rename the files on import using several options to suite your needs, choose a location (even create folders per day etc), there are different options if you choose the advanced window.

     

    It also gives you the option to convert to DNG if you should wish so (my preferred method), back up the originals and add a metadata template for copyright info all in one go.

     

     

    A few downsides, the thumbs (advanced window) build slowly, it always opens with only nine thumbs, it is not always able to import in the correct order in case of continues exposure using motor drive (can be easily corrected in Bridge with sort date created), it still is 32 bit and has a dumb setting as default to start Bridge.

     

    But the biggest downside is the option to delete files in import from card, a dangerous setting that should not even be there and you certainly should never use. Only delete files from the Card (or preferred use format) using the camera software itself when the card is in the camera.

     

    Never mind the files being from different camera's, if you should wish to view only d90 files or add an extra marker per camera you can do so in Bridge using the filter panel and choose either model or serial number or both.

     

    Don't forget to set ACR preferences to 'make default to serial number' and create a default for each camera in ACR. After having done so each new imported file will reflect the camera raw default per camera when cached.  If you use a central folder for all your newly imported files then point Bridge to this folder while importing and the caching start immediately to build

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 29, 2013 3:36 AM   in reply to sevenball

    If I use 'make default to serial number' will that apply to older images or only new ones I add.  And what is involved in creating a default for each camera?

     

     

    If you change the default (normal or per serial number) then only files that have no prior settings in ACR will be updated with the new default settings, all files with prior ACR changes (thumbs showing with an icon for changes applied) will respect this settings and don't change.

     

    There is a default for each camera in ACR, it recognizes the model and applies this default to the thumbs you point Bridge to ( since the ACR engine of ACR and LR are the same the defaults are also the same in both, a custom default created in Bridge or PS ACR is showing in LR and v.v.)

     

    However you might have some different wishes for each camera due to different characteristics and MP. Using per serial number ensures you they are for your camera only. So in case of 2 same cameras (and no camera acts the same on all settings) or using files form other sources with same model your custom settings are custom to your camera only

     

    You can create custom settings for what ever you like to appear as default but you should minimize it to what you always use and need. In my case I have chosen to set the WB to as shot, everything else in basic at 0 (process 2012 per CS6) tone curve to linear and sharpening at preview only. Also my camera profile is set to neutral.

     

    But that is personal. You can also create your own camera profile per camera using a color checker for the case you always correct a special color setting. And to make it even more complex you can also create per iso defaults. I find this to much work and have created some presets for high iso with a little noise reduction.

     

    Also creating extra presets can be useful so you can apply a number of different settings with just one click on the preset.

     

    Basically if you open a file and start developing (either in ACR or LR) and always apply same changes you should set it as default so the settings are already applied before you start tweaking.

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 29, 2013 2:38 PM   in reply to sevenball

    In your case with only 1 version per camera model  and no third party files the per serial number should not matter being on or off. Selecting it might only cause to start recache the files again (not sure about that) but if so, this happens only once and there would be no differ for the already applied settings as well as non applied files because you did not change other ACR settings, only the option per serial is added in the metadata.

     

    Presets are a good idea for different usage and you can store a lot of them.  Auto iso does not sound like a good idea to me (Don't even know I have the option using an EOS 1Dx but if so I would never use it. I like to have control over my settings…). You probably end up with a long range of different iso settings per session, one showing a bit more noise then other.

     

    I am fairly confident in using 6400 iso under bad conditions, they have about the same result as 1600 iso for my EOS 1Ds3. Fixed iso means fixed noise means easy correction for multiple files in one go.

     

    Don't know anything about Nikon Software and the parts I know about Canon Software are enough to only use it for first round adding my name to a new camera or register it. For the rest I keep far away from it because the good their cameras are, the bad their software is

     

    But I'm certainly not sure about using 2 applications for noise reduction in one file. See it as sharpening images, there are thousands of theories about sharpening, some have even several rounds but if you don't know what you are doing you end up with a horrible result of sharpening over sharpening creating unwanted artifacts.

     

    Noise reduction in ACR can be very useful but don't overdo it. Check the noise reduction closely in a 100 % preview, it is a matter of finding the best of both ways. Loosing noise is nice, but it also smoothens details and that happens quicker then you think!

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 31, 2013 3:37 AM   in reply to Omke Oudeman

    Auto ISO is great when light conditions are variable and you don't have enough time to monitor and change your settings. My last two cameras have Max ISO and Min Shutter subsettings too, so you can avoid noisy or blurry captures. My latest camera even adjusts the Min Shutter setting based on focal length (with an optional additional multi-stop offset).

     
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  • Omke Oudeman
    3,998 posts
    Nov 27, 2004
    Currently Being Moderated
    Oct 31, 2013 8:28 AM   in reply to Yammer

    Yammer

     

    I often wonder what time will bring but despite the surprises still to come there is nothing wrong with some old school

     

    Just 20 years ago we had 400 iso HP5 Ilford forced to 3200 (massive grain…) for bad light conditions and a bit later the revolutionary Fuji 1600 color both relatively expensive including development and providing 36 frames to expose per film.

     

    And now you are complaining about various light and having not enough time for control to get your 1000 exposures on a 32 GB CF card and this 'problem' is being solved with an auto setting with sub settings. You really sound like a spoiled child...

     
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  • Currently Being Moderated
    Nov 1, 2013 4:11 AM   in reply to sevenball

    sevenball wrote:

     

    My D7100 has the Min Shutter setting.  Not sure what the additional multi-stop is.  Anyway, I will use the feature in moderation. 

    I just checked, and it's only in the newer 'pro' models (I have a D800).

    You can set a minimum shutter speed to prevent subject blur; OR you can set minimum shutter speed to 'Auto' for camera shake, in which case it is calculated as the reciprocal of the current focal length (great for zoom lenses), and this can be further adjusted +/- 1 or 2 stops (depending on how much coffee you've had). It also factors in 50% for DX crop mode. Clever, innit?

     
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