I create the "chapters," like "scenes," but most often use PrPro, and then Adobe Encore, for the final authoring.
PrE does things a bit differently, in both the Timeline, and then the authoring phase, but it is not THAT different.
First, I would Scale the Still Images to about the Frame Size of the Project in Photoshop Elements, say 720 x 480 for an NTSC DVD-Video. For a bit of "wiggle room," many recommend Scaling to 1000 x 750.
When Scaled, Import the Still Images into an NTSC DV Project w/ 48KHz 16-bit Audio, with a Duration, that I feel is appropriate - usually around 05 sec each.
At that point, one has several choices. Since PrE does not allow one to Lock Tracks (Video, or Audio), I like to edit the Video (created from the Still Images) first, and then add Audio, at just the Duration, that I need. However, I use SmartSound, so I have complete control. If you have music with a set Duration, you need to Import the Audio, and drag that to the Timeline first. Next, drag all of your Stills, for that "chapter" to Video Track 1. The one issue is that if one does many editing functions now, the Audio can be manipulated, when one does not want it to be. One workaround to this is to just get the Duration of the music, and set a Marker on the Timeline. Edit to that Marker, and when done, drag the music to Audio Track 1.
Repeat for each of your four "chapters," so that you have all four songs, with their Still Images. At that point, just set Chapter Markers between each. Tip: I like to begin my Timeline with about 02 sec. of Black Video (created from the New Icon in the Project Panel), and use Dip-to-Black Transitions (regardless of the Transitions, that I place between the Still Images - usually Cross-Dissolves), and then have about 02 sec. of Black Video, between "chapters," so that when the user views the DVD, and select the Chapters, they are always coming "up" from black.
Some users like to create the SlideShows in PSElements' Organizer, and then send that to PrE for final editing, and authoring.
[Edit] I think that I mentioned four "chapters" somewhere above, and just saw that you had five. My bad, and disregard that please.
Hi Bill and thanks so much for your reply. These are a wide variety of pictures taken over the weekend. Sizes are mostly between 1MB - 5MB. It seemed like when I resized the large one (5MB) to 1000X750 it ended up about 300k in size but wasn't nearly as sharp as the smaller pics after I resized them. Is their any problem with resizing them to a larger resolution? What if I just left them the sizes they are. Space is not a problem as there are only a couple hundred pictures. Before resizing the large one you could zoom in and see things quite clearly on a pc. Is 1000X750 the largest you would recommend? Again I am wanting to get a product that will be viewable both on a PC as well as if somebody watches it on TV.
Thanks again for all your help
If you Scaled in Photoshop, or Photoshop Elements, there are a couple of choices (I think that PS-Elements has these):
- Bicubic Sharper
- Bicubic Smoother
- Nearest Neighbor
I like either #2, or #3, and the choice will likely depend on the actual Image.
For use in Video, large Still Images, WILL have to be Scaled at some point. PrE can do this, BUT the quality is less than desirable, and it takes a lot of resources to handle those extra pixels. That is why I recommend doing the Scaling in PS, or PSE. This article goes into more detail: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/450798?tstart=0
Remember, SD Video is ONLY 720 x 480 pixels (NTSC), and HD Video is only up to 1920 x 1080 pixels. Having more pixels, than can be used is not going to improve things.
Also remember that when one Scales down from, say 4000 x 3000 pixels (or larger), no Scaling algorithm will create Images, that are as sharp and clear, as the original files. That is a weakness in Video.
The 1000 x 750 is for SD Video, i.e. DVD's, etc., and for HD Video, i.e. BD, etc., then I would limit to 2000 x 1500 pixels. I go just a tad further, and Scale to exactly what I need, say 1920 x 1080 for HD, and if I need to Pan, on a Zoomed out Image, will calculate exactly what I need, and even Crop off unused vertical pixels, unless I need to Tilt (often referred to as Vertical Pan), on that Zoomed out Image. I do not like having to process any unused pixels, as they eat resources on a computer.
Thank you for the information as well as the link. I scaled to 1000/750 and it seems to play well. I am going to add the music. I am no hurry and enjoy the learning process. Was just wanting information on the creation of the DVD that can be used both on a laptop as well as a home entertainment system. I will keep you informed of my progress as I am sure I will have additional questions.
Thanks again for your help!