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Hello,
i am using the i1 Display Pro to calibrate and i have noticed that when i compare my old profile to the new one, the new one has a grey/greenish tinge.. does anyone have a guide to properly calibrate an iMac 5k with the i1 Display Pro?
Thank you
That looks like a good and comprehensive guide.
I'd just like to add that if this is one of the new DCI-P3 panels (Apple's variety of wide gamut), it's possible that it uses "GBr LED" backlighting, not "White LED", and the software should be set accordingly. This will affect the measured white point.
Most traditional wide gamut panels use GBr LED.
Generally, the calibration targets should be set to match the paper/final output (not the other way round). The numbers aren't important, D65 or otherwis
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Hi mickspawn,
Please refer the below troubleshooting guide.
https://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_i1DP_mac.html
Regards,
Mohit
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That looks like a good and comprehensive guide.
I'd just like to add that if this is one of the new DCI-P3 panels (Apple's variety of wide gamut), it's possible that it uses "GBr LED" backlighting, not "White LED", and the software should be set accordingly. This will affect the measured white point.
Most traditional wide gamut panels use GBr LED.
Generally, the calibration targets should be set to match the paper/final output (not the other way round). The numbers aren't important, D65 or otherwise. Let the numbers fall wherever they want. Just get that monitor white=paper white match.
Temperature is just half the story. That's just the yellow/blue axis. There's also a green/magenta axis to consider, and if this can be adjusted do so.
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I'd just like to add that if this is one of the new DCI-P3 panels (Apple's variety of wide gamut), it's possible that it uses "GBr LED" backlighting, not "White LED", and the software should be set accordingly. This will affect the measured white point.
The 2105 27" iMac with Retina 5K display does use a GB-R LED backlight according to the statements here. If you haven't done so already try selecting 'RGB LED' in the i1 Profiler 'Display Panel' settings and recalibrate the display. This might be helpful:
http://nativedigital.co.uk/site/2014/08/i1-display-pro-step-by-step/
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Hello, GB-LED is indeed selected (cant see GBr LED) and i still have the weird look. Could it be the lighting in the room that affects the profile too and how it is made? i have changed lighting setup.. my old profile from my old light setup displays true whites, but the new profile i made with the new lighting setup shows a grey/green tinge.
trshaner do you mean instead of GB-LED try selecting RGB-LED?
when i calibrate the brightness.. i set it for 120 and my display either does 113 or 142.. should i be selecting 120 instead of 142? doesnt seem bright enough lol
how do i get the white=paper match?
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in addition: im using GB-LED, 120cdm, D65, tone response curve - Standard, Gamma - 2.20, contrast ratio - Native, Chromatic Adaptation - Bradford, ICC Profile Version - Version 2, Profile Type - Matrix based, Patch set size - Small, Adjust Brightness, contrast and RGB gains - Manual
these are the only settings i see available.
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mickspawn wrote
in addition: im using GB-LED, 120cdm, D65, tone response curve - Standard, Gamma - 2.20, contrast ratio - Native, Chromatic Adaptation - Bradford, ICC Profile Version - Version 2, Profile Type - Matrix based, Patch set size - Small, Adjust Brightness, contrast and RGB gains - Manual
Those settings all look good! Do a Google search using:
One would think this would be corrected using a monitor calibrator, but not if it's White Point color temperature is off due to a defective LED backlight or setting on your iMac Late 2015 Retina display.
Yellow Tint on Late 2015 27" Retina iMAC | MacRumors Forums
iMac 27" Retina 5K Yellow Tinge (Late 2014) |Official Apple Support Communities
This one was fixable using built-in Apple Display Calibrator:
http://forums.imore.com/macbook/327556-whites-my-new-macbook-s-display-yellow-ish-normal.html
Instructions here: Accessing “Expert Mode” Screen Color Calibrator in Mac OS X (Sierra & El Capitan)
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how do i get the white=paper match?
The assumption here is that you can actually adjust the white point manually, until it looks right. With most monitor models you'd just do this through the OSD controls, where you would also set the luminance.
The point is that you want the calibrator to adjust as little as possible in the video card, where you only have 8-bit color depth. Strong adjustments here can easily result in banding and other artifacts. (In high-end monitors with hardware calibration it's all done in high bit depth internally in the monitor, so there the calibration software handles everything).
With an iMac I don't know if you have any adjustment possibilities at all. In that case I recommend setting i1Profiler to native white point, rather than having the software trying to adjust it in the video card. In other words, not D65, but native.
People generally attach far too much importance to numbers when setting calibration parameters. They think it must
be D65 and 120 because that's what "everybody" says. But the whole point is to have a reliable preview of what the final output will look like, and the numbers change with viewing conditions.
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https://forums.adobe.com/people/D+Fosse wrote
how do i get the white=paper match?With an iMac I don't know if you have any adjustment possibilities at all. In that case I recommend setting i1Profiler to native white point, rather than having the software trying to adjust it in the video card. In other words, not D65, but native.
It appears White point, Gamma, etc. are set using the Apple OS X Calibrator application, which then creates and assigns a new display profile. So what happens when you use the i1 Profiler software? Does the iMac retain the White point, Gamma and any other OSD settings made using the Apple OS X Calibrator application?
I found this X-Rite article concerning calibrating with the i1 Display Pro on a Mac. It provides instructions for copying an XRite_LinearProfile.icc to the ColorSync Profiles folder and then assigning it to the display. You do this BEFORE using the i1 Display Pro with it's i1 Profiler software.
Poor Results With i1Display Pro On Mac
NOTE: You'll need to change the instructions as shown below for your iMac with GB-r LED backlight:
1. Typically, users should select a white point of “D65”, a luminance setting of “120”, and “Native” for contrast ratio. If you have an Apple monitor manufactured after 2009, select “White LED” GB-LED for the display technology type.
That's enough to chock a horse.......Why does Apple make it so hard!
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hello,
i am following the x-rite guide and copied the linearprofile.icc etc.
im still confused.. ICC Profile version.. should i be using Version 2 or Version 4... i am using Version 2
Also, i trshaner i followed the guide on xrite and i got exactly the same calibration result as before.
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also, i am using a table lamp off to the left with a 5000k globe inside.. should i leave this on during calibration?
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I followed right through your instructions from the xrite website and got the following
i dont know if these mean anything testing white....
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mickspawn wrote
I followed right through your instructions from the xrite website and got the following
i dont know if these mean anything testing white....
You should use ICC Version 2 and not 4. The three screenshots of the calibration results look very good! So it appears you've had success in correcting the display grey/greenish tinge......yes....no?
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theres still a greyish/greeny tinge in my opinion.. if i switch to the standard iMac.icc inbuilt the whites are much whiter than when i switch back to my profile and a greeny/grey tinge flows across the screen.
the lamp is to the side (see attached pic). so i should edit in complete darkness?
now i have adjusted my screen brightness down it seems pics are blown out on other peoples computers.. do i need to edit photos and drop the exposure now?
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update: i turned off my lamp for calibration, i even calibrated with Version 4 as a test. each time same result.. greenish/grey tint
the inbuilt iMac.icc actually produces whiter whites
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Is the screen ok in the exact spot the calibrator was placed, but grayish green in other areas. If so see my reply #7 links concerning defective display panels.
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mickspawn wrote
whites are much whiter
This is what I meant before, when I said monitor white should match paper white.
You shouldn't work in total darkness, that will throw your whole visual set of references off. You need to be able to judge "what is white". Normal room lighting is fine. Even daylight is fine. The most important thing is that the lighting is consistent. The standard recommendation to start with 120 cd/m², assumes "normal" indoor conditions.
Look at a piece of white paper in good lighting, and then look at a white window on your monitor. They should feel equivalent - you shouldn't need to make big mental adjustments from one to the other.
Even better, make a print on good paper, make it as optimal as you can. Then set white point luminance, white point color, and black point luminance (contrast range) on your monitor, to match as closely as you can. Then you know that what you see on screen, is what you get in print (at least on that particular paper). What you see is what you get. That's the whole point of calibration.
Most monitors out of the box are far, far too bright. Yes, most people will look at your work under those conditions. But that's not your responsibility, not your problem - it's theirs. They will see everything like that, so they won't particularly notice your work.
Even if you don't print, or just work for web, our whole mental perception of what a photograph should look like is based on a photographic print. That's the only reference we all have in common.
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mickspawn wrote
now i have adjusted my screen brightness down it seems pics are blown out on other peoples computers.. do i need to edit photos and drop the exposure now?
The lamp location appears to be the primary light source and looks fine. With this ambient lighting a 120cd/m2 Luminance setting shouldn't cause you to adjust images so they appear excessively bright on other's monitors. Of course if they have the Brightness cranked to maximum then that might be the case, which also means other photographic images will also appear too bright. Please post one of the exported to JPEG images that appear too bright to a files sharing site and post the share link here. We can then provide more advise. You can also simply use insert image here in your reply.
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hello
see below link.. these are all blown out on the recipients computer and he says on iphone they are too bright.. on my screen they look perfect
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In Windows 7 image viewer they are bright but not to bright. Are you using external lighting, flash umbrella and the like or is it all done in LR.
It would be best to post the Original files exported as DNG or the real original RAW files including the XMP sidecar files, if you have that option enabled, so we can see what edits you made to them.
Have you ever printed any of these images and if you have do they match what you see displayed on your screen? Or brighter, darker.
I think your monitor brightness is set to low.
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mickspawn wrote
hello
see below link.. these are all blown out on the recipients computer and he says on iphone they are too bright.. on my screen they look perfect
Those look perfectly fine. No3 is a tad bright but not annoyingly so. It is not unlikely that the problem is on the receiving end. One thing to try is to download and look at some test images (a good collection here: Printing Insights #48)) Look at them on your monitor. Do they look too bright? Too dark? Are the colors natural?
Also, reading through the thread one thing to consider is that 120 cd/m2 is a really low brightness setting on the newest displays and they become harder to calibrate at those conditions. You might need to calibrate it at a more medium brightness setting to get rid of the tint. Also, that number is what is recommended for really quite dim lighting conditions. It was originally specified for much less bright CRT monitors where to get good contrast you needed really low background lighting. This is not that relevant anymore for modern displays and most editing rooms are not setup that way. Any room that has some daylight in it or more typical lighting will need a brighter setting than that.
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The CRT recommendation was usually 80 cd/m² - mainly because few of them would go very much higher. So you'd make up for that with a little dim ambient light.
I can't imagine that 120 should give any problems with modern LCDs - unless the video card LUT is used to knock down brightness. It should be done in the OSD controls.
Anyway, the white piece of paper is still the most valid and reliable reference for white point. You should "see" paper white on screen.
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You are right it used to be even more extreme at only 80 candles. Many current LCD screens will only be close to 120 cd/m2 at their very lowest brightness settings (usually less than 10 on a 1-100 scale). Recent iMacs have to be around their lowest brightness settings to reach it. The spectral output of the backlights does vary with intensity and so you have to worry about that.
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The four JPEGs look a little bright on my 100 cd/m2 calibrated monitor. I raised the brightness to 400 cd/m2 and it is very bright, but looks fine if I raise the room lighting. So not really a "brightness" issue (i.e. Exposure setting). It appears to be due the high-key lighting and other LR Develop settings.
It looks like all of the images need more -Blacks with -50 making an improvement. Exposure on DSC07778-Edit.jpg is set a little high with significant Highlight clipping visible. Applying -0.50 Exposure, -25 Highlights, and -50 Blacks makes it look normal on my 100 cd/m2 (i.e. dim) monitor. So again–This is not due to a low monitor Luminance setting, which is 120 cd/m2 for the OP.
Please Export the DSC07778 raw file to DNG file format with the LR settings you used and upload to Dropbox for suggestions.
You can download a PV 2012 Basic Panel Tone Control Adjustment Procedure PDF I created, which may be helpful:
Dropbox - Lightroom PV2012 Basic Tone Control Adjustments.pdf
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mickspawn wrote
also, i am using a table lamp off to the left with a 5000k globe inside.. should i leave this on during calibration?
As long as the light isn't shining directly on the display screen that's OK, but it's probably not helpful when editing images. Personally I would leave it off for both calibration and editing.