Reshoot using zoom on your camera and a tripod to stabilize the shot.
Don't you have a zoom on your camera? Zooming in on a shot in post is certain to give lousy results.
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The trouble is that, even though you framed up a larger area than required in the shoot, unless your source material is (say) HD, and you propose to edit in a much lower resolution format as (say) SD, there is no way you can pan and scan in post without a huge quality loss.
Try it by using key frames in the Motion section of the PP Effects Window.
By the way: TILT up and down; PAN left to right :¬)
It's 1920x1288, and was shot with a steady cam rig. Reshoots aren't exactly desirable, especially for this shoot. I'm willing to sacrafice some quality and I shouldn't have to zoom in that much. Is it possible to zoom in the shot, and then pan up the orginal whole shot as to give the effect I'm panning up slowly?
It's in HD, 1920x1288, and I don't have to crop that much if that helps... I hope I don't lose out on too much quality though.
Are there any instructional videos for key frames that you know of? If not, I can always do a search. Oh, is that for zooming in on the shot, or tilting up?
That's helpful... I tought tilt was pivoting the camera like the way you pivot your head up and down, and pan is more like squattting and standing as to remain exactly flat, or opposite from what you're seeing. So tilt still would mean me slowly standing up with a camera, like rising, and not just aiming the camera at the ground and raising it up?
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I know the type of shot as a 'crane or jib' up or down
If the camera remains parallel to the base - it's a jib up/down crane up/down as Richard says. If it pivots - it's a tilt up/down.
Create an SD project that's widescreen (1050 x 576 in PAL). Drop your 1920 material into the timeline. You will see that the image is heavily cropped. That will show you how much leeway you have to pan and scan.
Here's a starter...
Moving Shot: Produced when the camera moves. When the camera remains fixed but swivels horizontally, it is called a pan; when it swivels vertically, it is a tilt. When the camera itself travels horizontally, it is a tracking shot. When the camera travels in closer to a subject or away from a subject, it is called a dolly shot. When the camera travels vertically, it is a crane or boom shot. (reference: Glossary of Film Terms)
The good news is that it is really easy to use the Motion effect that is automatically attached to every clip. Just select the clip and look in the Effect Controls Panel. Twirl down the triangle next to the Motion effect. While the CTI (play head) is at the beginning of the clip, click on the stopwatch next to the Position parameter. Change the second parameter to move the frame up and down. Put it approximately where you want to start the crane.
Now, you will have to decide this part for yourself, because depending on the frame size of the sequence, you will almost certainly begin losing quality the moment you exceed 100%. Click on the stopwatch next to the Scale parameter and zoom in by increasing the parameter above 100% if needed to make the video large enough to fill the frame and still acheive the effect that you desire.
Then move the CTI to the part of the clip where you want to end the crane move. Generally you will move up and stop well before the end of the clip. Seldom do you you keep going up until the end of the clip except when using a collection of stills, and even then, it is good practice to stop and let people see the resulting shot after the move.
When the CTI is at the right place, move the image to the right spot by combining the Scale and Position parameters to achieve your goal. This will set new keyframes. Play it back and you will see that the shot starts where you started it and ends where you ended it with Premiere Pro deciding all of the frames in between.
You make find that it seems to start too abrubtly at the beginning and comes to a jarring halt at the end.
No problem. Look in the Effect controls Panel for the actual keyframes on the little timeline in the panel. Right Click on the keyframes at the beginning and select Ease out. Do the same for the keyframes at he end but select Ease In. It will smooth the start and stop. Instead of jumping right to full speed and stopping abrubtly, it wiull act more like a car that gradually speeds up and gradually stops. If you are a perfectionist - and many of us are at times - learn to use the Bezier curves to adjust this effect manually.
Having said all of this, I highly recommend that you select a frame size that is smaller than HD if you mean to do a significant zoom. That way you scale down most of the video, and when you zoom you are actually only going back to 100%. No loss at all. Can you deliver SD material? Or must this be HD? Because any loss in quality is painfully obvious in HD. It really is.
And since this has not changed since the start of Premiere Pro, you can look through this tutorial for assistance even though it was for version 2.0: http://digitalproducer.digitalmedianet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=37610
Message was edited by: Steven L. Gotz - Jon beat me to the punch - I took too long to write mine (and had breakfast along the way)
Did you enjoy your breakfast? What did you have? It's afternoon tea here!
Cheese omelette with onion, green pepper, sausage and mushroom. Just about every morning. Like editing, I chop it all up on Sunday and on weekdays I take portions of all of the ingredients and make my masterpiece. One time showing only. A very exclusive and private affair.