Since you don't buy the whole "digital negative"deal, I won't bother explaining why you are wrong and simply point out that Camera Raw (the plug-in that processes your digital negative into Photoshop) does NOT use the camera company's SDK for processing...as a result the Camera Raw default will not match the camera LCD or JPEG look–which is actually arbitrary as well.
If you want help arriving at an optimal image setting, ask...otherwise, use your camera company's software to process a TIFF and open THAT into Photoshop...
it sounds like you have more than one problem and without being able to dissect your workflow, i'll just tell you the easy way to turn off the auto adjust "feature" in camera raw.
when you open an image in camera raw, go to the basic adjustments panel (the default when you open, on the right). click the "default" button and to the right of the word basic, go to the dropdown menu. choose "Save New Camera Raw Default." this will allow you to see your native raw file every time. unless you change it.
Jeff Schewe wrote:
Camera Raw (the plug-in that processes your digital negative into Photoshop) does NOT use the camera company's SDK for processing...as a result the Camera Raw default will not match the camera LCD or JPEG look–which is actually arbitrary as well.
This surprises a lot of people, who at first don't realize that a whole bunch of arbitrary choices go into developing the data the camera has captured into the JPEGs it delivers. Thus in layman's terms "Adobe out-of-the-box color" doesn't match the "camera's out-of-box color". This gets even more complex because the cameras now all have a bunch of controls for tweaking those settings, which are not fundamentally different in concept from all the Camera Raw settings, but there's no connection between them. The number of variables gets mind boggling in a helluva hurry.
But the one thing Jeff did not mention in his rather oversimplified description above is that there actually IS a profile provided with Camera Raw for most cameras that emulates the manufacturer's color pretty closely, and it's NOT the default. What Jeff may not like to admit is that some folks actually LIKE the out-of-box color their camera delivers, because it looks better than what Adobe delivers out-of-the-box, and they would like to start with that color when developing images using Camera Raw. I'm one such person.
As has been mentioned, if you indicate a willingness to try to learn how better to use Camera Raw, yocalico, then say so and we can begin to describe how to do things like set up your own Camera Raw Defaults so, for example, the color can start out matching your camera's JPEGs, and work the way YOU want it to work. Photoshop and Camera Raw are quite configurable that way.
Note that you may also have some work to do regarding setting up your computer system's color-management so that what you see on your monitor is accurate. That is always a challenge to help with on a forum, but it's necessary to understand color-management AND get the settings right in order to get deterministic results from your system. But rest assured it's doable.
if its a digital negative, how come it shows up in bridge correctly? and even if it was a 'digital negative', when you shoot film you fix your settings and there is a generic development exposure, and unless you alter them the colors/white balance come out as you shot them. that last suggestion may work; i was hoping i could make a jpg copy or something w/out processing
if its a digital negative, how come it shows up in bridge correctly?
Because unless you have your Bridge preview settings set to make high quality previews, Bridge is displaying the built in Exif thumbnail made by the camera...and just to be clear, what the camera may think the image should look like is no more or less accurate than Camera Raw...it's simply a different interpretation of the raw data. There is no absolute "correct" rendering of raw image data, it's always an interpretation of the raw data based on the demosaicing and rendering tools of the raw processor.
You can argue all you want, but that's not gong to get you anywhere...what you should be doing is learning how to use the tools to make the images look the way YOU want them.
okay - and sorry, apparently replies were posted while I was writing mine, so i didnt see them first; i do know how to save new defaults, but i have a large group of photos shot on two occasions in extremely deviant light/color and havent been able to exactly match how i fixed it in person;
2 questions (because i am absolutely compelled to learn, and hope my last reply didnt come off as abrasive or pretentious)
1.) im guessing a moderate amount of the color deviance has to do with the difference between default camera settings and my custom settings; is there a way to directly emuate my settings in camera RAW? like, for exampe, I shoot with a 5d and you can go up and down bars for contrast, hue, saturation etc. in the color profiles. if i went down a certain number of bars could i go down a certain value in camera raw to match this?
or are there certain specific things CR does to every image, or to each image respective of any certain data?
2.) what Raw always seems to do is sorta change the huge/cast, brighten and oversaturate it, and i just can't seem to get back to the right hue and saturation with the original detail. is there a setting or trick or any advice ?
I posted below a 'graphic demonstration' of what I am going through --granted this wasnt the best example, seeing as the adjustments werent as drastic or horrible as they usually are; but the first image is a screen view of the unaltered-looks-the-same-as-camera-lcd ; the second is the auto adjustments camera raw made. the bottom left are some minor adjustments to the preview screenview to brighten the image, and last was a moderately effort and time-consuming attempt to bright the autoadjusted image without destroying the color--seems minor,(and again, in this example it was more so than others) but it took a moderate amount of effort to get to that, and i simply could not manage to get the sort of hue back, even though i feel ike i can see all the difference and aim at them (ie, the shadows look redder, and highlights look more yellow and saturated)--
so perhaps if there is any advice to end towards fixing this imageit will help me for others.(I was planning to post the difference between the default sliders and my adjustments too, but didnt realize the brightness/contrast changes would keep after)
i hope that wasnt too long or confusing! help is still appreciated!
I win!! this has bothered me for soooo long and i realy did think it came about pretty suddenly, but has been so long i kinda forgot about that and that that was why i was so adverse to the wholehe 'digital negative'! well, was both correct and super blond--under 'develop settings' in bridge i selected 'clear settings' and now my images show up everywhere as shot!!
Clear settings just deletes all edits you made to the raw image. So in effect it is how it was downloaded from camera. But as others have stated this image is raw, like a negative and may need adjustments to make it look like you want it to.