See if this works...
Please NOTE that the PPro CS6 screen may look a bit different (I use CS5)
For CS5 and later, the easy way to insure that your video and your project match
See 2nd post for picture of NEW ITEM process http://forums.adobe.com/thread/872666
It does not matter what project preset you use. John already provided the link that gives you the information you need.
However, if you feel you must set your project up right from the beginning, you can find the Digital SLR category and choose the 24, 25 or 30 settings. There isn't a 60p setting, so just use one of the other settings for your 60p footage and use the steps in the link to create the appropriate sequence.
Congratulations on getting the GH3. Mine is on order at B&H and I have no idea when I will actually get it. I ordered it in early December. I rented one from BorrowLenses.com for my vacation in Hawaii. I didn't shoot much video, but I took a lot of pictures. What video I did shoot works fine in the Digital SLR presets.
I shot mostly I-Frame at 72Mb/s, but I shot a little at other speeds just to look at it.
I missed the full moon by a couple of days....
I couldn't get one for love or money in the US; I had to go up to Canada to get mine. But it seems to work very well. I noticed some blocking artifacts when filming Christmas Lights at the Coeur D'Alene Resort (don't like that- see the youtube link), and I can't get the display info to stay on in the monitor longer than 10 seconds at a time. That's important for audio, and no fixes yet for it. But it is a fantastic camera/hybrid otherwise. Worth the money I'd say.
I think the camera gets confused when the light size approaches a cluster of 4 pixels or less.
Canada, huh? Nice. I just rented one to save my vacation. Now here I am with a bunch of pictures but no camera.
I watched ypur video a couple of times and I certainly see the problem. However, I can't test it at the moment obviously. I never had the need to raise my ISO above 200, and I didn't take any video of lights because I was trying to figure out how to take photographs. This whole vacation was about photographs. I shot some photographs of fireworks, figuring I already knew how to shoot video. As such, I spent a lot of time taking pictures with shutter speeds of one second or more. That would not be good for blinking lights though.
If you have the opportunity to set up a string of blinking lights yourself, try a few different settings. First of all, I would normally move to 1/60 shutter speed when shooting 30p. Start close, perhaps using a Prime, and move farther and farther away and see if the problem has a sweet spot. Try different ISO settings. If you don't have a prime, just set your lens to a little above the lowest focal length or just below the shortest. Depending on the lens, I am told that the extreme ends of the lens are possibly a little softer. Also avoid the extreme ends of the f stop. You shot at f5.6 which may have been as low as you could go. Stop it down one and see what happens.
What lens did you use, and what focal length? Did you have a UV filter on the lens? (Probably a bad idea for lights but SOP for many photographers I am told.) Or, maybe a Polarizing filter?
Did you have the camera on full auto aperture and focus, or just focus, or full manual. I found myself on full manual everything by the end of the second day of my vacation. I just couldn't get proper focus in the dark without adjusting it myself. And since it was not a particularly sunny vacation, I found shooting in the dark to be more interesting than shooting in daylight.
I hate trying to look for user error, but I find it hard to believe that Panasonic would allow a problem that bad to sneak through. Or rather, I really hope it isn't a problem with the camera. Maybe you can figure it out for all of us?
Here are a couple of pictures in the dark. The fireworks started before I could get to where I wanted to be. So for fun, I tried to center a giant palm tree in the center of the fireworks display. I have a whole series of rocks in the ocean, under the moonlight, with the shutter open for 5 seconds. They look magical, mystical, and almost other wordly to me. I am now in love with this particular art form. You really need to see the whole series to get the full effect, but here is one of them.
Note to moderators. Please do not move this to the lounge. The first three posts will continue to be relevant for a lot of people over time.
I can't get the display info to stay on in the monitor longer than 10 seconds at a time.
From what I hear, that's how it's designed. I suppose Panasonic could change that in a firmware update, but for now that seems to be how it is.
This one 'feature' will probably keep me from buying the GH3 until it get's changed. I can't lose that critical feedback like that.
From the manual:
If approximately 10 seconds elapses without an
operation being performed, part of the display will
disappear. Press [DISP.] or touch the monitor to
make the display reappear.
Touching the display certainly works, but it has to be done carefully or the camera will move on the tripod and foul up the shot. I can't remember if touching the screen on the Smartphone app will do the same thing or not. It might.
Try that. Using the Smartphone app is a great way to touch the camera without touching the camera. I used it a lot to take pictures. I don't think I used it to take movies because you have to set a duration in advance, or you have to press the button on the camera to stop the video ahead of time.
I was using the 12-35mm f2.8 Lumix G X lens. I shot mostly at iso1600, but also did 800 to see if it helped (didn't). I would have liked to have used my Voigtlander 17.5mm f0.95, but I didn't think I'd be out there that night. Shutter speed was at 30fps, and it was stopped down to about f5.6 to cut out everything but the lights. It did have a UV filter on it, mainly because these toys are expensive, and I've had a times when I've had bad luck and a uv saved a nice lens.
Took some great pictures with my GH1 of fireworks last summer- your pix remind me of them.
I'll dig around and maybe do some side by sides with my GH1, and some other codecs. All of my other low light footage was great.
I love the Smartphone app, and I use it. But I shouldn't have to do anything to keep the data display on screen. I would think it would be so easy to just add that option in a firmware update. I am a real stickler for good audio, and I don't mind recording off camera and syncing later, but even then you need to have good audio from the camera to make the syncing easier.
I'll just have to wait and pray.
Was going all the way up to Canada worth it? I don't live that far from the border so the answer is definitely yes. But if I lived in Florida or Texas, I would probably have waited for BHphoto.
I was thinking that maybe using an ND filter instead of the UV might solve the problem. I also keep a UV on all the time, but I was warned not to use it for some things. Sometimes it might be necessary to prepare ahead of time and swap out the UV for the ND, or a Polarizing filter, or even just plain glass.
I agree that it is pretty dumb to blank out part of the monitor while shooting video. I mean really. What is the point of that?
If I was shooting in a studio or I had a crew, I would probably shoot with an HDMI cable attached and watch the results on a larger monitor. But some people run and gun and just can't do that.
Anyway, just out of curiosity, when using the 12-35, what focal length were you actually using? Did you shoot any photographs to see how they looked?
Edit: Another question.... Why such a high ISO? I don't know a lot about ISO, but what I do know indicates that the higher you go, the more noise you are likely to get. So in the case of Christmas lights, why go higher than 200? Maybe you would not have had to stop it down as much? Unless you needed to in order to widen the DOF?
I have a great collection of photographs that show me the various errors I made on my vacation while practising with the GH3. I have some where I should have increased the ISO to accomplish the task, and didn't realize it at the time. I am analyzing each one in order to understand the camera better and shooting photographs in general. This one was taken on a cloudy day and I didn't get as wide a DOF as I intended because I couldn't stop it down enough and still get enough light. Increasing the ISO would have allowed me just that extra 1/2" I needed, I think. Look closely and you will see that not quite enough of the flower is in focus. So that's why I ask about ISO.