Just video editing.
Or, if not, that is all you need to do.
The video on that site is probably 1280X720 cropped down to 1280X560 or so. I can't easily get an exact measurement. However, I suggest that 560 would be the best choice since it is evenly divisible by 8 (which makes a difference when using most codecs).
Not only does cropping it that way make it look kind of cool, and different, it allows you to cover a lot of sins around the top and bottom edges. You can edit this way by creating a sequence that uses 1280X560 and then arranging your footage in that frame to reveal the best parts of your video. Or, you can edit the whole thing and crop it upon export.
Well, you're getting some great answers...and the tutorial is really good Ann put on..
For the fun of it, there is some history involved ( if interested ).. having to do with shooting with film as 'anamorphic' ( and anamorphic wide screen ).. and this link kinda explains the basics..remember, this has to to with motion pic film cameras and movie projection ( theatres)
Nowadays there are so many newer cameras ( film and digital ), that you can do the anamorphic "look" with cropping for webcast etc as mentioned by Steve and Ann...
If I was gonna do that I think I would put some kinda guides for my frame on the camera so I could frame it according to the final frame output... like put tape or something on the monitor ... but that's just me...
Here's some sample film and digital frames and also your image to 'compare' the aspect ratios...can use psd and select a given aspect ratio ( panavision guide..just select something like the 1:85 white frame you see ... paste that into your image and then scale it up to see if it matches )... is fun.. I tried anamorphic, 185 and 240 and non of them matched exactly.. so it was probably just cropped as Steve and Ann suggested...
Shoot in the normal 1080p/24, then use the following during editing.
When exporting, go the Source tab in the Export Settings dialog and add 140 px Crop to the top and bottom. In the settings, use 1920 x 800 resolution for the export.
oooohhhhh.. I like the psd drawing Jim... thanks ...
I put it into psd and scaled it to the image area of my camera screen ( width ) and put that into quark xpress and with just a black stroke ( border ) for the rectangle...and printed to fit my screen ( which on this camera is 3.25 inches wide ) ...and cut out the rectangle with an exacto knife...so now I have a "guide" frame for that aspect ratio on my camera screen when desired...
( just centered top and bottom )
Yes, the use of the term "true anamorphic," is a misnomer, as you point out. There is no "squeezing" of the Image onto standard size, say 35mm, and then "unsqueezing" it for projection - anamorphic lenses do not play into the production in the case of the tutorial. I would have used "anamorphic-like," instead.
However, many feel that there is no problem playing fast-n-loose with long-established cine terms.
In the olden days, I had several Nikon screens that I etched with various Aspect Ratios, so that it was easy for me to frame the shots, exactly as the client specified, if different than that of full-frame 35mm. I just started with a bunch of old E-screens, that I picked up at a used equipment bin, and scribed them, as needed.
Not quite so easy with video cameras (or many DSLR's) today, but you and Jim did a good job. On my 4x5's and 8x10, I just used acetate overlays for special "crops."
hehe.. 4x5 and 8x10 are so HUGE ( ground glass ) you can do ANYTHING with them...tape, plastic, etc..
On plate shots ( motion pic ) we just lock the heck outta the camera ( dolly etc )...take tons of measurements just in case ( lens height, position of gate on ground ( like a chalk mark ) and angle of the head ( camera plate ).. distance to subject ...all that...PLUS tape off the montor of video tap. LOTS OF MARKS ...hehe..
But now I'm using Jim's psd guide scaled to my image on camera LCD...neato ! for anamorphic look , that is...
Link up there about history of anamorphic mentions it is greek or latin or something for " re-form "....
Talking about reforming ITS BEER THIRTY ! YIPEE !
ps BILL , WHERE'S MY LIGHTS !! ???
Talking about reforming ITS BEER THIRTY ! YIPEE !
Dang, you declared that early today, but then, it is St. Patrick's Day, so no harm.
Things were more restrictive, back in pure film days. Trying to get different Aspect Ratios required some interesting workarounds.
We had one client, who had bought matching anamorphic lenses, and shot (forget what camera now) with one, then handed off the "projection lens" to the lab for printing (unsqueezing) his negatives. Other than maching a plate for the Durst, there were no problems, after the initial set-up, and the stuff looked pretty good.
One of the lab techs picked up an antique "banquet camera," then built a sliding back for it, so that he could get 3, IIRC, very wide shots on a single sheet of 8 x 10 film. Also neat.
Yep.. some cool stuff. I shoulda been born in a house where there was enough dough for dad to let his kids play with cool stuff as kids...optics, electronics, all sorts of stuff we woulda loved to play with and learn about ...is why I love schools now that teach youngsters about all this stuff early. I hope I get to meet some of the school people around here during the documentary to maybe 'help' them learn stuff. The sound stage owner I met will let me use stage for free if I use his 'students' to help out ( he's hooked up with some school )..so that would be fun too !
getting off subject...sorry...
.and printed to fit my screen
I've been thinking of doing the same thing. I need to find some type of clear plastic to print on, though, something that would just 'cling' to the LCD display. My camera has critical info displayed behind the gray portion of the guide that I need to keep visible, so normal paper won't work.
.neato ! for anamorphic look , that is...
It's not really an 'anamorphic' look, just a widescreen one. Genuine anamorphic will exhibit a different kind of bokeh and flares that cropped widescreen doesn't. Anamorphic also has a unique look when you rack the focus.
If you want to add that anamorphic look to a cropped widescreen production, Magic Bullet Looks has the effect.
so normal paper won't work.
They still make transparencies. You remember the kind I mean. You printed out your powerpoint presentation and put the transparency on the hot white light in order to shine it on a screen.
I would use Office Depot but just for grins, they even sell it at B&H.
I don't know if it would cling or not. Maybe if you ran it over the hair on your arm, or head, it would cling from the static electricity?