Does it help if you are viewing at 100% (View>Actual Pixels) as you make your adjustments? Preview at less than 100% can be misleading.
Thanks for your suggestion.
When I viewed at 100% and applied my adjustments, I saw that there was no change to the pixels of my image. But when I zoom out and look at the whole image, I see changes when I make my adjustments, and they do not save when I click 'OK'.
I am trying to make a two tone image, black and white, where there are no black pixels in the white sections. Even though posterize must have worked successfully, because there are only black and white pixels, there are still black pixels in the white sections, making all sorts of grey tones. This is unacceptable because I am preparing an image for screenprinting, and there needs to be solid black and solid white, no grey.
Using brightness and contrast, posterize, and levels, I am not able to achieve what I am trying to do. Is there some other way to do it? Based on what is happening to me, it seems like posterize, brightness/contrast, and levels do not work. When I adjust their faders in their dialog boxes, I see the changes in the preview image, and it looks like what I want. But when I click 'OK', it reverts to the original. It basically is not working. The same thing happens when I create adjustment layers. It looks fine and is working. But when I save to jpg, tif, or psd, the adjustment layer changes are not saved onto the final image.
Detailed, high contrast images, are most susceptible to incorrect previews at less than 100%.
Can you post an example at 100% view? And describe what you are trying to do?
Here is a small section of the image viewed at 100% (View-> Actual Pixels). I want the building faces (the grey parts) to be completely white, devoid of black pixels. At the same time, I want the shadows to be completely black, devoid of white pixels. It is too laborious to go over this with the bucket fill tool, or any paintbrush tool. Do you have any suggestions for how I can achieve this?
Thanks so much,
Hm, yeah. If you look at what you call "the grey parts" you'll see it is actually a halftone screen of black pixels and white pixels. Photoshop does not see it as grey. You can't darken the black and you can't lighten the white.
Here I ran a blur filter and using Levels combined with Dodge Tool got building faces close to white.
Probably someone here who does this more often might have better suggestions.
You can see the Rosette pattern of halftone dots in the lighter areas.
This was a scan of a printed image and this is a common issue.
Can you get an original photo (not a scan)? This is probably best solution.
If you scanned this yourself, try adjusting the settings when scanning, look for De-Screening options or something that mentions printed images.
This can reduce the problem. But scan at a high resolution, also 48 bit if this is an option with your scanner.
Scan in COLOR. Then you want to make your adjustments to the image in the color image before changing to Grayscale and possibly doing additional adjustments.
It looks like this image is already in Bitmap mode which is Black & White pixels ONLY, no grayscale pixels at all.
Once you are in Bitmap mode (Black & White only) that is very little you can do. That is why you say you cannot see any changes in your adjustments.
You could erase to White and erase to Black but this is labor intensive and only a viable option if you cannot do the above options.
If this is just a one time thing and you have Illustrator you could redraw this and save it in many different file format (but always save the original vectors you created as an AI file BEFORE saying in any Raster (Pixel) type format since these will destroy the vector elements and be no longer editable as vectors)
If you search the internet for images of "Habitat 67", you should be able to find some better candidates.