As someone coming from the video world, using auto-balance kinda defeats the purpose of using any charts/ targets at all. The whole point is to manually set a color temperature/ reference point and then use that as a fixed formula how to color correct your footage to a "neutral" color in post or already achieve a "neutral" color look on location. If you get my meaning: Your problem is not what target to use, but the whole procedure. What you are currently doing may work on some level for studio shoots where the lighting doesn't change much, but even then you may still actually see differences in color range usage when you actually inspect the histogram. If you use auto balance, you'd actually have to a have a reference in every image like a greyscale gradient strip mounted on a pole in a fixed location relative to your primary light or similar...
Thank you very much. Ok,, As far as color temperature goes, I can change it inside my 5D, such as: Custom from 2500 K - 10000 K
Also, My Camera has the following Settings:
Daylight 5200 K
White Fuorescent 4000K
With the experience I had I found out that if I shoot with a wrong color temperature, But as long as I have a Gray-Card there by choosing the Gray-Card as a reference I get a correct white balance.
Also, I choose a Custom White Balance, By shooting a white or gray card, and applying that to my Custom White Balance Setting. I think this is the best way I can get the white balance by applying Custom White Balance.
If the custom WB is consistently used (calibrate once, store the setting), there should be no problems. It just sounded like you let some automatism handle it on a shot by shot basis, which could have ill effects. So if you don't change the WB during the session, everything would be okay. Using complex color charts should not be necessary beyond the good old Kodak color strip or any other "standard" chart. Digital shooting benefits however from having a reasonably large reference for red/ green/ blue color to detect issues with debayering, chroma undersampling, spatial alignment issues of the individual color cells/ channels or different color sensitivity (if e.g. the blues look too dark, you may need to use different light or a more blue-ish WB setting).