There is no "correct" value for white point - or rather, the correct value is the one that gives you a visual match from screen white to paper white. This goes for luminance as well.
First of all, you need to have a controlled working environment - precisely to avoid seasons or time of day to affect your perception. Windows are always a problem; shield them as much as you can.
Getting a visual match depends a lot on ambient light and viewing conditions. So strictly in that sense you're on to the right idea (although it would be the other way round), but this can't be approached in such a schematic way. It's much subtler and requires some trial and error.
There are two ways to attack this. If you print yourself, this can be controlled very precisely by setting up a print viewing station, using controlled light, preferably right next to the display. Then you match calibration parameters, visually, to that as closely as possible. The white point doesn't have to be 6500K or 5000K, it can be anything in between. It doesn't even have to be along the Kelvin scale, you may well have to adjust along the green/magenta axis as well. Whatever matches paper white is the correct white point.
If you work for offset print, or other off-site printing, you have less control and need to aim for "average" print viewing conditions. But the same principle applies: screen white = paper white. Even if you work exclusively for screen (web), this will put you on the same page as others who calibrate similarly.
Often overlooked, but equally important, is the black point/contrast range. Again, print output is the key. A good, glossy photo paper may have a contrast range around 300:1. Matte papers considerably less, perhaps 150:1, and offset print even lower. In practice this means a black point around 0.3 - 0.5 cd/m². With i1Profiler you set contrast range directly.
Monitor manufacturers like to advertise high contrast, like 1000:1 or higher. In reality that means you're in for an unpleasant surprise when you see the final result on paper.
Of course, this is the long version. I don't know your requirements for accuracy.
Just to get you in the ballpark right away, go for D65 or 6500K (actually not quite the same thing, but for all practical purposes here they are) - and stick with that for now.