I tries using the adjustment brush, select auto mask and a good feather and you can paint it around the edges of the building. Tick the show mask if you like until complete. Better to do the building in stages.
I switched off Show mask then selected the Tint out of the drop down menu, slowly turned the temperature down to the blue end (cooler) and watched the sky change colour. I repeated it a few times around the trees, selecting a new stroke at intervals as the original yellow tinting changes around the trees.
Seemed to work, but you would need to spend more time on it, I did this in a couple minutes to test it, see what you think. You could spend a longer time but the principal seems to work? Best wishes with it, results will be dependent upon how long and how much care you take
Thanks. I'll try both of these methods. Unfortunately this haze affected many, if not all, of the photos that I took on the trip. This will be a long project, unless I can find a group of settings that will work (reasonably well on all) photos.
This method seems to do the job quite well, but imagine using this method on 200-300 photos!
I guess it's a matter of how much effort I'm prepared to put into this project. I'll probably give it a shot though, as they are the only photos in my 40,000+ photo collection that will require this much attention. Would sampling that colour and then removing it from the photo work?
I tried your settings and played with various combinations, but I couldn't seem to reduce the yellow fringing. This method would have been my preferred solution though, as I could have applied it all or most of my photos.
The very first thing I would do is just take a look at the scanner's mirror. My 4000ED was haloing like crazy because of a dirty mirror. If the mirror is dusty, cleaning it and rescanning will probably take less time than editing the images.
Agreed. When I first looked at this image I got the feeling something was wrong with the scanner. The yellow tone of the building is bleeding into the sky AND the blue in the sky is changing the tone of the building at the same intersection. Another (more remote) possibility is that a filter on the camera lens caused the problem. Examine the negatives with a magnifier and see if the "fringing" is visible.
This is slightly off-topic, but still relevant. I've pretty much abandoned using my film scanner (Plustek 7600i) and now use a DSLR copy setup. I worked with Mark Segal (SilverFast 8 book author) on developing a method of capturing and processing color negative images using a digital camera. Mark's process uses LaserSoft SilverFast HDR 8 for processing the camera raw film capture files and my process uses Adobe PS. The article, an instructional PDF, and a PS Action for processing color negatives are available here:
Mark and I both use LR for the final processing and cataloging of our captured film images.
I'd agree that there's something wrong with the scanner IF other scans demonstrated the same problem, but my scans of thousands of other negatives have turned out fine. The problem only manifested itself with those taken on my 1985 trip. Although I transported the film in lead bags throughout the trip, they may have been exposed to heat or x-rays at some other time before or during the trip. Exposure to x-rays seems unlikely though, as the only flights we took were the initial and return flights and the film was protected for both legs.
As an aside: Vuescan Pro was superior to both Silverfast and the scanner's included Nikon software in colour accuracy and resolution. I've tried the scanning-negatives-as-positives technique and that didn't provide satisfactory results either.
paul w wrote:
I'd agree that there's something wrong with the scanner IF other scans demonstrated the same problem, but my scans of thousands of other negatives have turned out fine. The problem only manifested itself with those taken on my 1985 trip.
Just say'n......The below examples look very similar to the scan you posted!
Fig. 3. Film scans can not only suffer a loss of contrast in dense areas but also have haloing when there is shmoosh in the light path. In positive scans, like what's shown here in the diagonal upper half, the halos will be light intruding into dark areas. In negative scans, it will be dark bleeding into highlights.
1) Try rescanning a known good negative of a similar subject type.
2) If all is well try rescanning one of the 1985 negatives?
I just scanned this negative from 1986 and, as you can see, there were no issues. I've tried rescannng the 1985 negs, as trshaner suggested, with the same results as previously. I looked at the negs with a magnifying glass and it appears that the bleeding is on the negs......but it's hard to be certain. This is very frustrating.
Just to clarify: Is the negative scanned in the above post the same film size as the original posted image and did you use the same film holder? That could make a difference.
I suggest also posting this in the Photoshop Forum Photoshop General Discussion. If it turns out the negatives are truly stained Photoshop has better tools for fixing the images. Post the same info and a link back to this post so others can see what has already been suggested.
The first neg was cropped slightly to highlight the yellow shadows. Both were scanned using the same holder.
(I had a feeling that I was going to need Photoshop to fix the photos..... :-( )