Presumably there may be some color profiles out there. Other than that I think you simply misunderstand what they are offering. They are merely providing a photo reference card, not a color management toolset for print or whatever. Actually getting the colors right is still up to you based on how you work with adjustments based on your global settings, observing histograms, mangling channels or in the most trivial cases which pixel you sample from the reference card.
As long as each patch has a numeric Lab value it should be usable for general color correction in flat light - such as repro work. But you'll mostly use the neutral patches anyway. Getting colorimetric matches for the color patches is more or less futile. You'll never get there and you'll be doing yourself a big favor by not attempting that...
They don't seem to offer camera profiling here, which would require special software. The patches don't seem to follow the normal colorchecker standards, so you can't use any existing software.
Instead they offer "individual" icc printer profiles. I simply have no idea how they intend that to work. First of all, you need a spectrophotometer anyway, and then you will already have high-grade printer profiling software to go with it. Second, what is this profile supposed to describe? The physical chart? How is that remotely useful in relation to your printer? Am I missing something here?
Instead they offer "individual" icc printer profiles. I simply have no idea how they intend that to work.
According to their website, it looks like you download a test chart - print it then send it off to them to make a profile using ProfileMaker and an i1Spectro
Ah, ok, so that's just a standard printer profiling service then.
Anyway, the chart itself is useful enough as it is, just as a general white balancing and tone curve correction tool. The key is that the patches have standardized values. This is how I use my ColorChecker 99.9% of the time.
I only make camera profiles when I am forced to use non-uniform light sources like LED or fluorescent (which I try to avoid). For daylight or incandescent, I have never been able to improve on the Adobe Standard profiles for my Nikons, and at a certain point I just stopped trying.