Can Adobe Standard be made to look like Camera Standard?

[Paul_B_GB]

Firstly, I'm running Lightroom 6 still, and don't really want to upgrade to Classic because of the subscription thing.

One of my camera's Raw files in Lightroom only has Adobe Standard available in the calibration section (LR 6). The Adobe Standard profile's tones look much more like Camera Neutral than Camera Standard from the Camera's Jpeg's. No matter what i try i can't seem to get Adobe Standard looking good compared to the camera made Jpeg's. I've tried everything in the Basic panel, i.e stretching out the whites and blacks, and also adding contrast via the contrast slider. Either the tones look flat (un-contrasty and misty) or if i use the contrast slider positively to address that then the tones look too contrasty like I've used too much. There doesn't seem to be a middle ground. That has led me to think that the answer probably lays in using the tone curve sliders or the point curve too. I've been playing around down there for a few days and i just can't figure out a workable method.

Has anybody else had experience of this kind of problem and if so what solution did you find?

I'm aware that every camera is different, but i'm sure similar issues must of been had by some on here?

[JP Hess]

I don't really have a solution for you. Only suggesting that upgrading to Classic probably wouldn't solve anything. If all you have is Adobe Standard now, that's probably all you would have if you upgraded. What camera make/model are you using?

[kentdesign]

HI, Yes the move from LR 6 to the newer LR also changes a lot in the camera profile options.

How are you judging the camera made jpgs? on the back of the camera or on your computer screen?

However, although I am using the newer Lightroom, I do remember having profiles other than Adobe standard when I used LR 6. I shoot Canon and the list always gave the same as on my canon camera had I been shooting jpgs + the Adobe Standard, and any custom profiles I created using the x-rite color checker passport.

[Paul_B_GB]

Hi I have 2 cameras, a Canon 800d dslr, and a Samsung NX300m compact system camera. I shoot Jpeg and Raw in both. The Canon has multiple colour profiles in Lightroom, but it's my Samsung that only has Adobe Standard.

Adobe Standard looks very similar for both my Cameras and I find it hard to get it looking good for the reasons I mentioned, and so I don't like it. Camera Standard for my Canon looks great. There is obviously a different process going on for Adobe Standard Vs Camera Standard, some kind of Raw curve. Adobe Standard looks neutral. That's why I'm wondering if Adobe Standard can be processed to look like Camera Standard but I can't figure it out.

With the Samsung I'm judging the camera made JPEGs that use the camera's version of Camera Standard against the Raw files of the same image, side by side in Lightroom.

[SeanMcCormack]

The additional profiles for Canon are based on Pictures Styles and were made originally to satisfy the Canon audience seeking their emulation in Lightroom. I doubt Samsung have the same audience to get Adobe to do it for them. The new Adobe Color is based on Adobe Standard but is far more pleasing and useable.

If you want to post a Samsung raw file, I'd be happy to post a JPG processed with Adobe Color and nothing else for you to get a feel for how it looks.

You could of course try converting a file to DNG and running it through the DNG Profile Editor to create your own profile.

[Paul_B_GB]

Interesting reply - thanks

I've tried Lightroom Classic and found the tones for Adobe Colour to be very similar to Adobe Standard if you add some contrast slider to Adobe Standard. The colours are much better though. However it's not the colours I have a problem with for the Samsung, it's much more of a contrast problem. I.e Adobe Standard gives a very neutral starting point, and an image that's flat and lacking contrast. Even after stretching out the blacks and whites sliders it still looks bad. Adding some positive contrast slider will get rid of that flat misty look but the image ends up looking too contrasty and unnatural. That's why I'm wondering if work can be done down in the tone curve or point curve, but I can't figure out how to do it so it looks good.

I'm sure others that use Adobe Standard probably have some tips on what works.

[SeanMcCormack · Accepted solution]

I wouldn't use Blacks and Whites for contrast control. They're for the the extreme ends of the dynamic range, whereas contrast is over the whole range. They're not the same as black and white points in Levels in PS. If it's true control over contrast, then the Tone Curve is the tool of choice, and for specific control the Point Curve.

[Paul_B_GB]

Could you recommend values to use to get adobe standard looking more like camera standard?

[Abambo]

Creating your own profile could be the solution. Just in case this is of interest for you, you may look into this: Creating Custom Profiles for use in LR and PS Classic CC

...and there are a bunch of videos on Youtube using a colour checker target from Xrite (like colorchecker profile lightroom - YouTube ). Only drawback to this is: the colour checker target is not really cheap... and it may or it may not solve your issue.

[JohanElzenga]

Paul_B_GB  wrote

Firstly, I'm running Lightroom 6 still, and don't really want to upgrade to Classic because of the subscription thing.

One of my camera's Raw files in Lightroom only has Adobe Standard available in the calibration section (LR 6). The Adobe Standard profile's tones look much more like Camera Neutral than Camera Standard from the Camera's Jpeg's. No matter what i try i can't seem to get Adobe Standard looking good compared to the camera made Jpeg's. I've tried everything in the Basic panel, i.e stretching out the whites and blacks, and also adding contrast via the contrast slider. Either the tones look flat (un-contrasty and misty) or if i use the contrast slider positively to address that then the tones look too contrasty like I've used too much. There doesn't seem to be a middle ground. That has led me to think that the answer probably lays in using the tone curve sliders or the point curve too. I've been playing around down there for a few days and i just can't figure out a workable method.

Has anybody else had experience of this kind of problem and if so what solution did you find?

I'm aware that every camera is different, but i'm sure similar issues must of been had by some on here?

Everything you describe here is based on tonal changes. It’s more likely that the differences are caused by differences in color (hue and/or saturation), so play with HSL settings to see if you can get a closer look.