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I think you'll find that for the optimal uprezing, you really should use Photoshop's Bicubic Smoother and then sharpen for the texture and detail in the image. Pretty much any good digital capture can go up 200% and if the image is very well shot (no camera shake and well focused) you might be able to get it up 400%.
Here's an article I wrote a while back: The Art Of The Up Res
Thanks for that Jeff. I read your article with interest. At the beginning you state that up-resing in PS using Bicubic Smoother is much superior to Camera Raw's algorithm. Then, in the penultimate paragraph, you compare a 6-megapixel image up-resed to 25-megapixels in both Camera Raw and Bicubic Smoother and state "They're essentially identical for all practical purposes". Hmmm. I guess what you're suggesting is that the differences between the two processes are minimal, though significant, and that the Bicubic Smoother approach is your preferred, particularly when subsequently adjusted with sharpening? (Even Adobe Help suggests using the Unsharp Mask after Bicubic Smoother increases)
Also, neither on the screen, nor when I printed it out, could I read the screenshot illustrations of what you actually did in the Bicubic Smoother Option (they were too fuzzy). Did you just choose Bicubic Smoother at the bottom of the Image Size window, and then simply type in 4992 in the width box? When you choose Bicubic Smoother is it a matter of arbitrarily choosing a pixel or document size to type in, or are there specific sizes which work best - as with the optimal image resolution sizes (ppi) for printers?
Thanks so much.