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          Ahhh...very good.
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            TEST BELOW...I'M WORKING ON FORMATTING
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              <B><FONT COLOR=RED>Copied from the archive, with BUMP replies weeded out.</FONT></B><br />=======================================================<br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>Lindas Graphics - 04:29am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Discussion on favorite sharpening methods in Photoshop.<br /><br />I normally use Unsharp Mask, Amount: 100 / Radius: .5 / Threshold: 0 -- followed by Fade with Luminosity Mode. Recently I've started experimenting with the Hi Pass Filter. There seems to be many different tutorials on sharpening, each one's method slightly different. I'd be interested in other user's favorite methods and why.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>pleader - 05:52am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#1 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />At the pro level ... well then the answer must be "it depends".<br /><br />Regards,<br />Victor Lee.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>Mathias Vejerslev - 07:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#2 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />This is a good starting point:<br /><br />http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/11242.html<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>pleader - 07:41am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#3 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Mathias,<br /><br />Thanks for that link. Another good article from Bruce. But I'm a little puzzled by "Figure 1a: Unsharpened" which to me is clearly sharpened already.<br /><br />Regards,<br />Victor Lee.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 10:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#4 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:34am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Mathias: I remember reading that tutorial in the past but forgot where it was. Bruce Fraser is one of my favorites when it comes to Photoshop. I've printed the tutorial along with the follow-up one he did. I'm glad you posted the link. Thanks!<br /><br />I'm interested in the methods you people use for sharpening. Does anyone else use the High Pass Filter?<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 11:30am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#5 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />Yes, I do. I use the overlay sharpening technique. Sometimes. It really depends on the subject.<br /><br />For web photos, I often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four times.<br /><br />If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four times.<br /><br />Works for me!<br /><br />See http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ for various techniques I´ve recorded, including the overlay sharpening technique.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 12:47pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#6 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 01:48pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I use a technique that has delivered reliable results for me, for what it's worth...<br /><br />I convert the image to lab mode, and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode.<br /><br />Its not original, it's a modification of an action found in PhotoScan Factory actions found in Xchange. But it produces VERY good results for me on MOST of the stuff I do.<br /><br />I hope this thread keeps going as sharpening is of huge iterest to me since my work requires the removal of moire patterns.<br /><br />[edit] By the way, i use the high pass filter followed by fade on the textual portions of my images (black text on a white background) that have been overblurred by the gaussian blurr filter. It produces some pretty nice results for me.<br /><br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:55pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#7 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Now this is getting interesting. I appreciate the elaboration. I look forward to trying your techniques and variation. Thanks Mathias and Tony.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> glen deman - 07:45pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#8 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />You can also sharpen individual channels. Try sharpening (or unsharpening, I guess it is!) the "weakest" channel of the image, or the channel with the least detail. I've found that this will often be the red channel; when you do this, you sharpen the image but avoid some of the pitfalls of sharpening, like halos and artifacts. I think I saw this in Photoshop Artistry.<br />Glen<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Danny Raphael - 09:34pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#9 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 10:37pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Here's a no cost edge sharpening action that's pretty nifty.<br /><br />Scroll down to the BOTTOM of this page at FredMiranda.com:<br /> http://www.fredmiranda.com/Action_profilesPage/index.html<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>YrbkMgr - 10:57pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#10 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:58pm PST</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Danny,<br /><br />I would say LOW cost, not NO cost - he's charging $8.50 for the action. Personally, I'll pass. Thanks for the link though.<br /><br />Peace,<br />Tony<br /><br />[Edit] DOH! I didn't scroll down far enough, there's a "lite" version offered for free below the one he charges for. My mistake, sorry.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mark Reynolds - 05:25am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#11 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Seems fairly pointless - I can almost tell you what the $8.50 will get; you:<br /><br />Make an edge mask first using the Find Edges filter on an alpha channel. This can then be blurred slightly and Levels adjusted. Duplicate the base layer and run unsharp mask to taste on the duplicate. Load the alpha channel into a layer mask on the Sharpened layer.<br /><br />This will sharpen the edges only - very useful for skin tones where you don't want any accentuation of noise and texture.<br /><br />The layer mask can also be adjusted (Blur and Levels again, and Maximum ) to enhance or spread the sharpening.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 06:09am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#12 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I´m one of those that believe that Freds actions, although valuable, are not worth the money. But I know that a lot of people are willing to pay.<br /><br />Actually, seeing Fred charging for his actions was a major motivator for me to develop the digital deluxe action set. - Which is free ofcourse.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Don Stefanik - 12:02pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#13 of 68) Edited: 24-Jul-2002 at 01:04pm PST</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />And a great set of actions they are Mathias... I use them quite a bit. They are one of my favorites.<br /><br />Don<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:13pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#14 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks Don,<br /><br />Only the de-noise actions are my own invention, the rest are variations of known techniques, invented by others. I just recorded and published them.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Dean Holland - 04:43pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#15 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />An off-the-wall sharpening approach that I use very occasionally.<br /><br />Sometimes a subject (especially plain tones) can stand strong amounts of only the light or the dark part of the USM halo. You can separate them thus:<br /><br />Duplicate the layer and USM the copy (you can go slightly harder than normal). Duplicate the copy, and change the blend mode of one copy to lighten, and the other copy to darken. At 100% opacity for both copies, you have the normal effect of the USM, but by varying the opacity of these layers, you can separate the amount of lighter halo and darker halo the subject gets, allowing slightly more USM than normal without it looking too crunchy or noisy.<br /><br />I think I read this in Dan Margulis' Book Professional Guide to Color Correction, which has an excellent chapter on sharpening with heaps of other ideas.<br /><br />Warm regards,<br />Dean<br />[Posted from Australia]<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 05:38pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#16 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Very cool ideas people. I'm enjoying this and keeping notes for when I can stop long enough to experiment on different kinds of images.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 12:17pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#17 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 01:28pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I'm back and want to keep this thread alive. Re-reading your posts and think your ideas so far are interesting.<br /><br />The link Mathias provided also covers Noise. I think dealing with Noise goes right along with the topic of Sharpening. I welcome your comments on Noise as well.<br /><br />I personally try to deal with Noise channel by channel. As a rule the blue channel seems to have the most Noise. But what I find tricky is when the sharpest channel (usually green) ends up having the most Noise, which does happen sometimes.<br /><br />My method is to use the Median Filter on the Noisy Channel then Fade. If you do it channel by channel you cannot use Luminosity Mode though -- one advantange of correcting all the channels together.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 01:07pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#18 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:27pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Re Post #5: <<For web photos, I often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four times. If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four times. >><br /><br />Mathias: On Web photos I'm curious why you do the sharpening in quarters instead of all at once. I assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity Mode.<br /><br />I am experimenting on a low res photo of an older person I recently took with my digital camera. I tried it both ways (all at once and in 4ths) but cannot seem to see any difference between the two methods.<br /><br />By the way, I'm not trying to find holes in your methods, on the contrary I think they are interesting and I'm enjoying the challenge.<br /><br />Oh yes, and another thing -- Your method of determining Radius is helpful. I tried that and came up with the same setting you did: .3<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 01:44pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#19 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:46pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Okay Tony, it's your turn. )<br /><br />I'm slowing making my way down the list.<br /><br />Re: Post #6 << I convert the image to lab mode, and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode. >><br /><br />Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights? If so, how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter? Just curious.<br /><br />One more thing: I assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct?<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:47pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#20 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />I have also developed a noise action that basically medians the L+a+b channels manually, and applies a 'manual' edgemask. This action demands more selective mask editing, and more user input, but it is 'stepless' - usable on all ISO speeds. This action, which is just a classic median de-noiser with a twitch, is not published yet. The subject of noise is pretty big.. It is also interesting.<br /><br />Sharpen in four steps Try it on another image. You really need different sharping for each image. Examine at 200%. The edge halos in the stepped version is less pronounced. You can use this stepping method on all the classic filters and techniques for a better resampled pixel.<br /><br />I assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity Mode. I used to do that. Now I sharpen a merged layer and put this in Luminosity mode to avoid any color shifted pixels, and to keep everything neat and un-destructed. If I want, I apply an edgemask to this layer.<br /><br />There´s another method I use. This method is called <a href=http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/USM.HTM><FONT COLOR=ROYALBLUE><U>Real Unsharp Mask</U></FONT></A> (I´ve got it actionized as well). It is very nice for certain subjects and contrast enhancements.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> pleader - 02:55pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#21 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Mathias,<br /><br />There was some mention of actions that you have for download. I'd like to try them. Where are they please?<br /><br />Regards,<br />Victor Lee.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:30pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#22 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Here: http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/<br /><br />(I think its listed in my profile.)<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 03:40pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#23 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Mathias: I tried your "Real Digital Unsharp Masking" technique on the same photo I was experimenting with previously. I found at the end that the photo was considerably darker so I duplicated the original untuched layer, selected Screen Mode and lowered the opacity to 70%. Above this layer is the layer with the mask applied in Luminosity Mode, opacity lowered to 50%. Below both layers is an original untouched layer. The results are good but different from the other (4 Times) method. I can't tell which is better. Both are good. I enjoyed seeing how Unsharp Masking works this way.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:43pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#24 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />The luminosity switching is the big problem with RUSM. You can control it by experimenting with setting the brightness / contrast levels, and/or with a final curves adjustment layer.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Dean Holland - 03:46pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#25 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Mathias,<br /><br />I very much like the Real Unsharp Mark... like sharpening and a contrast mask in one.<br /><br />Linda... after hard unsharp masking, I sometimes attack the worst of the noise in shadows with the "Dust and Scratches" (D&S) filter on a duplicate of the image. Use a small radius (1-2) and very high threshold (30-60) to just zap those pixels that have gone way out of line. Use a luminosity mask to just let the D&S layer show through in the shadows, otherwise the image will be softened overall. It's similar to your median approach.<br /><br />Dean<br />[posted from Australia]<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 03:50pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#26 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I'll give it a try Dean.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 04:09pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#27 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 05:13pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Dean: That did not work very well on the image I'm experimenting with. It seems those settings do not produce a very good blur. It actually seems to produce extra artifacts. I'm just wondering why you might have chosen those settings.<br /><br />When I use D&S with Radius 1, Amount 1, Luminosity Mode, Opacity 50% -- It seems to work better.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> pleader - 05:59pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#28 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thank you, Mathias.<br /><br />--Victor<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Dean Holland - 08:37pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#29 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />Ah... it's probably due to differences in medium. I'm using 4000dpi scans of 35mm film, often fairly grainy film. Your digital image probably starts off with less noise, so hard USM doesn't give you the wacky pixels that I get.<br />Play with whatever settings seem to work best for you.<br />Good luck!<br />Dean<br />[posted from Australia]<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 10:12pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#30 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Hi Carol...<br /><br />RE: "Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights?"<br /><br />Yes.<br /><br />"If so, how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter? Just curious."<br /><br />I found an action in Adobe XChange called PhotoScan Factory that contains this technique - it's not my own. I have had to tweak the glowing edges and gaussian blur settings from time to time, but in general through trial an error have found a range of values that I like. So, I run the action with my tweaked settings, if I don't like it, I run it with the dialog boxes enabled and adjust more. In general my settings for glowing filters are:<br /><br />Edge Width 3<br />Edge Brightness 8<br />Smoothness 5<br /><br />Then a gaussian blur of 0.9 to 1.1 is run on the lightness channel copy that had the Glowing Edges Filter run on it. Then the channel is loaded as a selection, then deleted.<br /><br />Finally, the glowing edges/blurred selection is Sharpened at about 180 with a radius of 2.1 and threshold of 0.<br /><br />After this is done, of course, it's just clean up with the lightness channel deleted and converted back to RGB mode.<br /><br />RE" One more thing: I assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct?"<br /><br />Exactly. I have found that by doing it this way, I experience little or no color shift as compared to most USM techniques.<br /><br />It is fair to point out the following. Most of my images have moire patterns - it's the nature of my work. So prior to running the sharpening procedure, the images are heavily blurred using gaussian blur (heavily =1.1 - 1.3). Since that is the case, the sharpening process I use *may* be too strong for some, but is just about perfect (or as perfect as you can get until I read another cool method in this thread <grin>) for me.<br /><br />I'll be reading with interest...<br /><br />Peace,<br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:07am Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#31 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Dean: You are probably right on target there. I'm playing around with an image that I've downsized to 72dpi. It does make a difference. Thanks!<br /><br />Tony: Thanks for all the helpful information. I've got work to do this morning but will come back to this conversation again when I get a breather. This is quite interesting.<br /><br />Linda -- not Carol )<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 01:00pm Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#32 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />Linda -- not Carol ) Geeze, I'm sorry - don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. You may herein refer to me as Dolt.<br /><br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:36am Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#33 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />LOL -- No problem Tony.<br /><br />I can't wait to come back to this topic as soon as I catch up on other things and can give it more attention.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lexorin - 03:12pm Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#34 of 68) Edited: 01-Aug-2002 at 04:17pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Just noticed someone already mentioned this...<br /><br />Convert image to LAB mode.<br />Select the lightness channel in the channels palette.<br />Run unsharp mask as you normally would.<br />Revert image back to original mode.<br /><br />Working on just the lightness channel in lab mode keeps unsharpmask from sharpening your color values.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 12:57pm Aug 4, 2002 Pacific (#35 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />It never hurts to restate something like that Lexorin.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>Lindas Graphics - 08:21am Aug 6, 2002 Pacific (#36 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Keeping this thread alive. Will be doing some intensive repairs to my hard drive, followed by reinstallation of software. I hope to come back to this thread when things are back to normal.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:18am Aug 8, 2002 Pacific (#37 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I found aPDF about different methods of sharpening:<br />http://www.dimage.org/NewFiles/J.%20Winberg%20Sharpening%20PresentationText.pdf<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 08:20am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#38 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre,<br /><br />That was a very nice contribution. I happen to be saving this thread as sharpening methods are extremely important.<br /><br />Thanks.<br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Enrique Ivern - 11:07am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#39 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre, thanks...always useful to have a brief cookbook to consult!<br />Not clear if you're the author...if so, thanks again, if not, thanks to the unknown author...<br />Cheers.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> vEnrique Ivern - 03:11pm Aug 12, 2002 Pacific (#40 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre, I just printed the whole document....thanks also then to<br />Jack Winberg, the author.<br />Cheers,<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:34am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#41 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I said I've found it using Google... I'm still in the learning curve of PS (as EVERY user is ) Maybe one day...<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 01:06am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#42 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I have to say that I am having some VERY nice results from the Digital Deluxe action set, specifically the contrast masking, edge masking, and high pass sharpening.<br /><br />The high pass sharpening adds that "ever so little" tweak I need after my normal sharpening methods.<br /><br />Great Actions, Thanks!<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 08:37am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#43 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />You´re welcome, Tony.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 02:59pm Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#44 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I'm so glad to see that you all are still participating. This is a nice group. Thank you Pierre for the PDF link. I'm keeping busy and so unable to continue experimenting for now, but like Tony I'm keeping this thread for future use and reference.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:11pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#45 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Things have been hectic at this end. I have no idea when I'll have time to get back to this topic. Still, I guess I'll try to keep it alive since it contains so much good stuff.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> dave milbut - 07:20pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#46 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I've got Kai's PT v6... has anyone had any luck with the equalizer there for sharpening? Everything seems so drastic when I use it, alot of contrast sharpening. I'd like to hear from some people who've had more luck than me 'cuz I think I'm missing something there.<br /><br />Thans for a great thread, also saving.<br />dave<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 12:48pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#47 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I've got KPT 6 too but never used the Equalizer. I too would be interested in comments on it. So far I just keep doing the UnSharp Mask method. It works well for most normal sharpening. Specialized sharpening seems good for special needs.<br /><br />Noise reduction is often just as important as sharpening. What's challenging is when you have to deal with both noise and sharpening on the same photo.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> dave milbut - 02:08pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#48 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />For noise reduction (and addition), I'm really digging the beta of AlienSkin's Image Doctor. I can't wait for the full package to be released. You can get the beta from their site and play around with it.<br /><br />dave<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 03:59am Aug 26, 2002 Pacific (#49 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks Dave.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 11:05am Sep 9, 2002 Pacific (#50 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I found this pretty nifty trick from Russell Browns Tips site. A very nice technique that plays as a QT movie.<br /><br />http://www.russellbrown.com/body.html<br /><br />Peace,<br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 04:36am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#51 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Hi Tony. I've been busy dealing with computer problems in the middle of trying to keep my work going. I've ordered a new Mac (ducking) so hopefully I will have more time when things start running smoothly again. Thanks for the link.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 04:39am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#52 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />I too am keeping a keen eye on this thread and in fact, have made a PDF out of it since I will have to review it from time to time.<br /><br />Since the work we do involves removing Moire patterns, sharpening is of paramount interest <wink>.<br /><br />Get your new system, have some fun, then... back to work for you!<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:17am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#53 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Yes Sir! )<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 03:55am Sep 17, 2002 Pacific (#54 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Again other Sharpening tutorials (not new) at:<br /><br />http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/smart_sharp.shtml<br /><br />an High-Pass one:<br /><br />http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/high-pass-sharpening.shtml<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:35am Oct 1, 2002 Pacific (#55 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks Pierre. I'm swamped. I'll be back again.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:39am Nov 28, 2002 Pacific (#58 of 68) Edited: 28-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Maybe some of you might like to comment on an opposite problem. I've just done a photo correction. That part was easy. Dealing with noise is the hard part. The noise is out of control. I've tried targetting individual channels as well as going into Lab Mode but not getting the best results so far.<br /><br />Here is a <A HREF=http://www.graphicspalmbeach.com/porfolio/burttracyjohn.html><FONT COLOR=ROYALBLUE><U>link to the page</U></FONT></A> I posted. You can see the noise in the enlarged eyes portion.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 04:16am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#59 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 04:17am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Lindas, When I hear noise, I think about Mathia's Digital deluxe toolbox...<br /><br />http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/<br /><br />there are other non-freeware package for this task... try also the demo from http://www.neatimage.com/ (stand alone program)<br /><br />Hey, who's the guy next to Tracy and John?<br /><br />(on the sharpening side, I found this: http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/PSTV_downloads.html while searching for de-noising actions)<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 05:39am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#60 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks Pierre. In this case, I think NeatImage is the better choice. De-noise Deluxe is aimed at digital noise, and this seems more like film grain to me.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:41am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#61 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre: Thank you for the links.<br /><br /><< Who's the guy next to Tracy and John? >> You got it! )<br /><br />Mathias: You're right, it is film grain. I had only a photo to work with. It was scanned on the Epson Expression 1680 at a higher resolution and then sized.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:27pm Dec 15, 2002 Pacific (#62 of 68) Edited: 15-Dec-2002 at 07:27pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I've done more practice on noise by taking the channels apart, giving each one a major overhaul, then pasting them over the original document's channels. Trouble is, what looks good on screen looks not so wonderful when printed. I really want to improve my own PS techniques rather than use a plug-in.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 10:21am Jan 10, 2003 Pacific (#63 of 68) Edited: 10-Jan-2003 at 10:22am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I think Mathias' actions are pretty impressive. It's worth posting his LINK again. One day I plan to study each action step in detail.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 09:44am Jan 11, 2003 Pacific (#64 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I agree with Lindas - Mathias' actions are part of a process that I use daily; although I've tweaked them a bit, his concept in sharpening, edge enhancement, and contrast masking is quite sweet.<br /><br />When I first downloaded his actions, I posted in a thread my thanks to him as once of them was the finishting touch that I needed. It's worth repeating the "Thanks!"<br /><br />Peace,<br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Tenna Sutfin - 09:40am Jan 28, 2003 Pacific (#65 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Can you send me your action for ridding yourself of moire patterns?<br /><br />drapert@voyager.net<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=RED>End of Archived Thread</FONT></B>
              • 4. Re: Loading Dock
                Level 1
                Is one of your tools behaving strangely or not the way you expect in Photoshop?

                For every tool in Photoshop's Tool Box, the user may choose to fully reset JUST that tool to its default settings. To do this, look up to the Options Bar.

                On the far left side you will see a button which displays an icon of the currently selected tool. This is the Tool Preset picker. As indicated by the little down-pointing triangle, if you click once on this button a menu will drop down. In the upper right corner of this dropped menu you will see another little triangle, pointing toward the right. By clicking on this button yet another menu will fly out. By scrolling down the list of commands you will see two entries:
                 Reset Tool
                   and
                 Reset All Tools
                The first thing a user should try when a tool is not acting like you expect it should is to apply the command "Reset Tool" from this menu. Often this will cure a problem, and by starting your Photoshop troubleshooting with this procedure you aren't resetting Photoshop's entire behavior and environment to factory default in a wholesale manner. Instead, you're just getting that particular tool back to its default settings, leaving the rest of Photoshop's settings alone. If this doesn't cure the problem you're having, then you may need to move on to deleting/resetting all of your Photoshop preferences to factory default, as explained above.
                • 5. Re: Loading Dock
                  Level 1
                  Is one of your tools behaving strangely or not the way you expect in Photoshop?

                  For every tool in Photoshop's Tool Box, the user may choose to fully reset JUST that tool to its default settings. To do this, look up to the Options Bar.

                  On the far left side you will see a button which displays an icon of the currently selected tool. This is the Tool Preset picker. As indicated by the little down-pointing triangle, if you click once on this button a menu will drop down. In the upper right corner of this dropped menu you will see another little triangle, pointing toward the right. By clicking on this button yet another menu will fly out. By scrolling down the list of commands you will see two entries: > Reset Tool

                  >and

                  > Reset All ToolsThe first thing a user should try when a tool is not acting like you expect it should is to apply the command "Reset Tool" from this menu. Often this will cure a problem, and by starting your Photoshop troubleshooting with this procedure you aren't resetting Photoshop's entire behavior and environment to factory default in a wholesale manner. Instead, you're just getting that particular tool back to its default settings, leaving the rest of Photoshop's settings alone. If this doesn't cure the problem you're having, then you may need to move on to deleting/resetting all of your Photoshop preferences to factory default.
                  • 6. Re: Loading Dock
                    Level 1
                    Is one of your tools behaving strangely or not the way you expect in Photoshop?

                    For every tool in Photoshop's Tool Box, the user may choose to fully reset JUST that tool to its default settings. To do this, look up to the Options Bar.

                    On the far left side you will see a button which displays an icon of the currently selected tool. This is the Tool Preset picker. As indicated by the little down-pointing triangle, if you click once on this button a menu will drop down. In the upper right corner of this dropped menu you will see another little triangle, pointing toward the right. By clicking on this button yet another menu will fly out. By scrolling down the list of commands you will see two entries:
                    Reset Tool

                    and

                    Reset All Tools
                    The first thing a user should try when a tool is not acting like you expect it should is to apply the command "Reset Tool" from this menu. Often this will cure a problem, and by starting your Photoshop troubleshooting with this procedure you aren't resetting Photoshop's entire behavior and environment to factory default in a wholesale manner. Instead, you're just getting that particular tool back to its default settings, leaving the rest of Photoshop's settings alone. If this doesn't cure the problem you're having, then you may need to move on to deleting/resetting all of your Photoshop preferences to factory default.