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In Adobe Reader: View > Page Display > Two-Up
Good lord, I really had spent a lot of time looking (including browsing FAQs and the full online knowledgebase, and completely overlooked that.
I don't think it was stupidity on my part. I think it needs adding to the help files.
I'm used to referring to it as 'DPS' or 'double page spread', which doesn't feature in Help search, and nothing came of a search for phrases like "two pages" either. I figured it would be in 'Zoom'.
You will find it under 'Viewing, searching, saving PDFs' in the help file.
But not under 'view as double page spread' or 'view two pages side by side' :-)