Red frames are dropped frames, causing the Out-of-sync OOS problems.
You can't remedy the dropped frames but you can avoid OOS errors by using HDVSplit, a freeware capture program that is way ahead of Adobe, avoids those OOS errors, gives scene detection and previews.
What Harm said. Also, the elimination of OOS at Capture is by far the best course of action. However, if you must correct it in the Timeline, this ARTICLE will give you some tips. Remember - correcting in Capture is the way to go first. That article is just how to handle it later on.
To Harm and to Hunt - thanks very much.
My action plan:
* short term - manually capture clips from this DV tape, avoiding capturing during the breaks in the DV tape's timecode...which I assume should eliminate dropped frames
* long term - switch to the Split shareware utility for all of my HDV capture
- Mike -
If you intend to capture DV in contrast to HDV, I suggest you use Scenalyzer. It works better than PR.
I intend to stick with HDV, if possible.
My previous work with Pr Pro CS3 has been with Std Def DV. This is my first venture into editing HD content. I have been warned by friends that it's a whole new world...more demanding on computer resources and having its own set of gotcha's. Some suggest that I shoot with HDV at 1080i but that I capture and edit at a lower resolution (e.g. 540p). Reviewing the Capture setting choices in Premiere, it looks like it offers a preset for HDV at 720p.
For the moment, I am interested in avoiding the Blu-ray world. I will be using Western Digital's WD TV HD Media Player (a set-top box) to serve up the finished movies to my Sony TV via HDMI. I will also make some Std Def DVD movie versions and will post some work on Vimeo, too.
I'd be interested in your perspective, Harm.
- Mike -
If - for the time being - you intend to deliver to DVD, I suggest you shoot in HDV but downrez in camera at capture to SD DV. It makes the editing a lot easier and less strenuous on your PC. Use Scenalyzer for that process and a standard DV preset. Then go your normal route, either DL to Encore or export to MPEG2-DVD and import into Encore.
When at a later date you decide to use HD and go to BRD, you still have your original HDV tapes to capture from (using HDVSplit) and follow the same sequence, DL to Encore or export to a BR format.
I would NOT use 720 capture settings at all. It can not be used on DVD and makes it pretty hard on your system and will give you a serious quality hit. You shoot 1080. Then either use 1080 settings all the way and downrez at the end for DVD delivery (which is harder on your system) or downrez in camera (easier on your system).
Thanks for your continued advice.
Doing the resiz in camera makes a lot of sense. My only concern is not wanting to do my edits and titling for a large project twice (i.e. once for DVD version and later for a BR version). I know there's some feature of Prem. that allows substitute clips...work on low-res & replace with high-res...but I'm a rookie on that front. Is there a term for that?
As mentioned earlier, I was willing to try doing a manual capture process in order to work around the timecode breaks. But I'm running into issues, again. The first clip ~2 minutes - no problem. The second clip ~35 minutes - big problems...error reports of dropped frames...must be on portions of the tape other than my timecode breaks. Also, the thing can't complete the Conforming Clip 02b.mpeg process. It starts...makes progress...grinds to a halt mid-way...and renders Prem "Non Responsive".
It's feeling like this HDV full res process has lots of gotcha's. I'm wondering how folks get through it.
- Mike -
It may appear difficult, but it really is not. It may put a bit more strain on your PC, but my workflow is - coming fron a HDV camera - to capture with HDVSplit, create a HDV project, edit and then:
1. Follow Dan Isaacs approach to downrez to SD, or
2. Enocode to MPEG2-DVD with a bitrate calculator, or
3. Use DL to Encore
and proceed from there. Most of the time I use method 2.
OK, it sounds like my next step is to get moving with HDVSplit and see how it goes. I'll do it.
If successful, I would use the Media Encoder as follows to generate an HD file that will display using the WD TV HD media player:
Preset: 1440x1080i 29.97 High Quality
Set quality to 4 or 5
If I want to burn a standard DVD, I would pursue one of the three options you outlined. Forgive my newbie ignorance,
* how do I research the Dan Isaacs technique...is it posted in the Forums?
* re: bitrate calculators...are those other s/w solutions outside of Premiere?
* when you say 'DL to Encore'...is that code for Export to EDL?
- Mike -
Shout out to Harm -
Thanks for the tip on HDVSplit - it is working like a charm.
It did halt the capture process when it encountered the blank tape gaps on my recording, but was easily restarted...and it didn't break the sequential numbering of the clips...nice. It handled other drop frames gracefully...displaying red frames but not halting the capture. The OOS issue is no longer a problem and the individual clips certainly make storyboarding a lot easier.
- Mike -
PS if you have a moment, would you mind answering my questions re: Isaacs, bitrate calculators? thanks.
A while back I had a somewhat similar loss od sync problem with red (or green) frames. It was caused by dirty heads try one or two passes of a head cleaning tape.