Get the original.
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Is there a PDF version available, for example, as a brochure? Many times, you can open up the PDF in Photoshop (assuming you have PS), and grab the embedded graphic of the map on import. Sometimes, these are very high-resolution images that are simply scaled down to fit the boundary of whatever design the image is implemented in.
Do you have Illustrator and, more importantly, know how to use it? If so, you can place the JPG in an Illustrator document and then use the Live Trace feature to turn the raster artwork into vectors. It's not perfect, and will usually require a fair amount of clean-up, but if the map isn't too complicated you can probably have a good result. I had to convert a scanned logo into vector artwork this way, and I'm by no means an Illustrator guru--the output was pretty good.
If you know Photoshop but not Illustrator, you can probably do some clean-up and rebuilding there, if all else fails.
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With Video, you will be dealing with ~ 720 x 480 pixels displayed at a time. If you will be panning on a zoomed out image, you will obviously need more pixels, to allow for the animation (Motion>Position), but you do not want much more than that. What are the pixel x pixel dimensions of your JPEG? BTW - JPEG compression is not the most ideal, as much data has already been "thrown away." However, sometimes that's the best that one can do.
Getting back to your dimensions. The resizing algorithms in PrPro are not the best, if one is trying to Scale a larger image. I find that the scaling algorithms in PS are better, and one has much more control over how they are applied. I do ALL of my resizing in PS, and for panning on a zoomed out image, will calculate the exact number of pixels that the image will need to "travel," behind that 720 x 480 "window."
In PS, I would look at using Bicubic Sharper (but experiment, as you also have Bicubic Smoother, and others), and resize to just what you need. Then, when you Import into PrPro, first Render that JPEG, by pressing Enter. Observe it in the Program Monitor, but first set that to Magnification of 100%. Also, and this seems to differ computer to computer, monitor it with Quality set to Highest. If that does not look as good as you wish, before you go back to your JPEG, reset Quality to Automatic and try again (do not know why sometimes Automatic IS better than Highest, but sometimes it is).
One option would be to use that JPEG as a guide, and then create a Vector art image of it in Adobe Illustrator. Place that AI file into a properly sized Image in PS, and size it, as is necessary. Then, Save_As a .PSD to be Imported into PrPro. More work, but better results.
Last, for ultimate quality check, if you can view the Timeline on a calibrated CRT NTSC (or PAL) monitor, you will see the best representation. Next best is to Export the DV-AVI, do a test burn to DVD RW (with Encore), and then play that test DVD-Video on a set-top player, hooked to a TV. The Program Monitor in PrPro is an emulation, though a pretty fair one - it still falls behind a calibrated CRT monitor, or the set-top player to TV.
[Edit] Colin and Harm type faster than I do...
.jpg is 2592 pixels x 3872
[sig deleted by host]
OK, you will ONLY be able to see about 720 x 480 pixels at a time. Do you have to pan on that map, requiring more pixels to be available, but "off screen?" If not, then I would definitely use PS to do the resizing, and go with the smallest size that you need. With no panning, that will be approximately 720 x 480 for NTSC DV. Make sure to correct any PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio, as you probably have a Square-pixel image (PAR = 1.0).
Do look closely at the results of Bicubic Sharper, and Bicubic Smoother, especially. Personally, I would try with at least those two, and then study the Imported version of each method, and use the best. Depending on your version of PS, you might have other Bicubic options.
Since you already have a compressed JPEG, do NOT re-Save as JPEG. Just do a Save_As .PSD, after the resizing and PAR correction. Import that as Footage, and let PrPro Merge Layers (if you have any). Also, a little touch-up work in PS might make a major improvement.
Good luck, and let us know of your success,
It looks like you might have replied via e-mail. That puts a sig. in your reply with some personal info. You might want to turn that off, as these are open fora, and one never knows who might be reading. Also, various 'bots crawl them, collecting POP accounts to spam you later.
Just a thought, and good luck,
[Edit] I had not noticed that, and replied to that reply, so you cannot go back and edit it - sorry. I reported the personal info to Adobe, and one of the MOD's (with a MOD console) will probably be by to clean that up for you. Sorry that I did not catch that in time, as I could have replied to your OP.
Message was edited by: Bill Hunt - added [Edit]
My apologies for responding via my e-mail, habit.
I will try the suggestions and i'll keep it simple. I don't think i'll create the vector map as this might take me longer than i'm willing to do for this one aspect of my project. I think the resizing and sharpening in PS will do what I need. This is a great start.
I understand about the e-mail reply. Many use e-mail as their ONLY communication link with the forum. It's only a problem in two instances:
Some e-mail programs will block-quote the entire post, to which a reply is being sent - usually this can be turned OFF.
Some e-mail programs will add a sig to all e-mail correspondences. Many users do not even realize this, until someone nudges them. This can usually be turned off. Along these same lines, some POP servers will add "sales pitches," with URL's to the bottom of e-mails. Again, the user is often totally unaware, as they do not see these on their Blackberry, etc., and do not really read their own posts carefull.
I just did not want some spam-'bot grabbing your POP info, or some unworthy person calling you on the phone.
Now, I do understand not wanting to re-create the map in AI. Been there - done that. Normally, given the time, that would be my approach, but then there's that phrase "given the time."
I hope that the other methods will get you really close to optimum. That is one reason that I strongly recommended against doing an additional JPEG compression, once you have done the editing. You've already lost something in that first compression, but going down to video (lower rez), one might never notice that. It is more forgiving in video, than it is in print.
Most of all, good luck, and let us know of your success. Your question will likely help others, and they might benefit from the exact steps that worked for you.
PS - many decades ago, I dated a young lady who lived on Lake Lytle [SP?]. Have only been "through" Abilene once since those day. It was a lovely city. Used to buy Coors beer in Impact, TX, which was then a separate tiny town, completely surrounded by Abilene. <Memory Lane Mode OFF>