That True Power Quattro is pretty old by now, and is no longer competitive with newer 850W PSU designs.
Thanks. It seems that the forum is off line at this hour, so will try to
post via email.
I cant seem to find a power supply looking at availability for 850W, at the
shop that will build my machine for me in Israel. They have Enermax Modu87+
but only at 700W or Enermax Galaxy 1000W, too little or too much.
Another option i'm looking at is Thermaltake W0131RI ThoughPower 850 W APFC
Power Supply - but not sure it's gold labeled.
what about Enermax Galaxy 850? It has a prettey good review here - http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/enermaxgalaxy850w/conclusion.php
but is WITHOUT gold label.
I am looking for silence and efficiency in a PSU, but can only rely on what others say about it, because beyond the directive to look for 80+Gold, i am really devoid of any skills to determine how it competes with other ones.
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Get the Pro version and then enter all your components, put your CPU load at 100% and capacitor aging at 30% That will give you the recommended wattage. Now add around 10 - 15% for safety margin. Then you know what total wattage you should be looking for in a PSU, but even more importantly it also shows the requirements on the various voltage rails. You need to carefully check whether the PSU you envisage using, does supply the required output on the different rails. I once nearly bought an Enermax PSU, but noticed that while the overall wattage was OK for me, the output on the 3.3V rails was not enough for my needs.
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Now that you have mentioned that "silence" is one of your goals here, I'm going to contribute with what I learned and applied to my latest build. If you have a PS sized larger than the power you are normally pulling, it will be able to run at "low fan speed" mode much or all of the time. You will however have to pay more, possibly much more, in order to do this. I utilize full water cooling and large, slow turning fans everywhere to keep the rest of the system quiet, so I did need a quiet PS too to prevent it being the audible "weak link".
I chose a Corsair AX1200, and have been extremely pleased with it. My peak power consumption is way under 1200 watts, but what this AX1200 does is power my PC with flawless quality and near silence up to the point where I am really pushing things hard; hard here means a 4.4GHz overclock + 12 7200rpm hard drives + rendering with 100% cpu utilization. There is a lot of hype too regarding effeciency, but if you look into the efficiency vs. power consumption curves you will find that all power supplies pushed up close to their limits will be WAY less efficient than if they are not being pushed too hard.
One more note, and something you have not mentioned at all, is modular connectors. A selling point for me with Corsair's AX line is that they are fully modular. I had to RMA a bad Enermax once and while it claims being a "modular" design, the main large cables could not be disconnected (typical for many modular designs). So, if you have done a nice cabling job on your PC with cable wraps, etc., then you will have to dismantle some of that any time you want to do any swapping or maintenance.
When I made my PS selection about 9 months ago, jonnyGURU.com was an excellent resource.
Harm, am i correct to think that one runs eXreme PS calculater on an existing computer?
If yes, then i cannot do that as i am still building it on paper. And in fact, someone else will be doing the building for me, a store here in Israel; i have no training in electronics....cant endanger this expense (on all that hardware) by testing my skills as such.
I have been looking at other people's builds and comparing what i have going, and am assuming that 850W will suffice. At the store they're telling me i could do with 650W, but i said "no, no, no".
As for "output on the 3.3V rails" being not sufficient for your needs, well, that tells me that i need to look at another factor - voltage; so there's the force of the power, that would be the volts while the amount is watts, i am guessing but will research....
thanks for elaborating.
SO you are suggesting that to achieve silence get much more watts than you actually need in order to run the various elements and fans.
Modular connectors and jonnyGURU - to consider and look at.
And, i'm looking at Seasonic (http://www.seasonicusa.com/NEW_X-series_560-660-760-850.htm); is 80+gold, has modularized design, the voltage goes up to +5V, or so it shows in the picture, but the highest PS goes to 850W.
Do you think that's sufficient considering the parts:
Gainward GeForce® GTX 580 3072MB "Phantom"
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W
3 disk setup, no raid initially:
C: OS, Programs, Pagefile - SSD 120Gb - OCZ Vertex 3 (VTX3-25SAT3-120G) SATA III 2.5'' 120GB Flash SSD
D: Media & Projects - WD1002FAEX - Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200RPM, 64 MB, SATA III
E: Previews, Media Cache, Exports (storage) - WD2002FAEX-Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 7200RPM, 64 MB, SATA III
Cooling - Noctua NH-U12P SE2
24GB Ram- 2 units of G.Skill F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH DDR3 2x4GB 1600MHz Memory
Tower (case) - Lian Li PC-A70FB
Seasonic's 850 would be excellent! I just read jonnyGURUs report on its smaller brother, the
760 watt unit, and it has a good review, a 120mm fan, and it stays silent until tasked with upwards of a 50% loading.
Go for it!
Regarding your system build list, it is looking GREAT, but for my taste you are still short on drives; lots of users here praise having two 2x1TB RAID 0 arrays, and that would probably be a good idea for you as well.
You have come a long way from trying to do CS5 with a laptop!
Forgot to say...
I ran a watts calc. for your system on Antec's online calculator and using 2600k OC'd at 4GHz, 1.4 CPU core voltage, 4 drives, and 4 120mm fans, your peak load came out around 750 watts. 850 watts should be fine and stay pretty quiet until you perform a big render.
Since you are responding, you must have a computer connected to the internet. Then you can use the link I gave you. I often use it to check whether configurations that others contemplate, are properly equipped and react to those propositions. You do not need to have your new system installed before being able to use the Power Calculator, quite the contrary, use it to make purchasing decisions. Anything with access to the internet is suitable to use it, including an iPhone and similar.
Jim, Harm, you folks have been so helpful and supportive, I am so pleased to get your feedback, and cant thank you enough for helping me to build a proper system for CS5.5. Thanks.
Re the 4 disc setup, i have in fact, considered this in lieu:
C: OS, Programs - SSD 120Gb III Sata
D: Media & Projects - WD Black 2TB 7200RPM, 64 MB, SATA III
E: Pagefile, Media Cache - WD Black 1TB 7200RPM, 64 MB, SATA III
F: Previews, Exports (storage) - WD Black 2TB 7200RPM, 64 MB, SATA III HDD
It seems that at the shop, where the computer will be built, the technician will be designating the disks via the BIOS, i was concerned because i understood that that's done via Premier. I asked to be able to join while they were at it, to see how it's done, but they said "no".
And my question, is disk setup done via BIOS or Premier?
It is a three stage process, first you define the boot order in the BIOS, then you format the disks inWindows and allocate drive letters, then still in Windows you setup the pagefile. Then the allocation of media cache, preview, project etc. is done in the preferences and project setup of PR.
Thanks very much for this.
And, once i get the computer, is it as simple to check the BIOS, to see that the boot order has been defined as i wish?
In other words, what do i need to type in, to see the boot disk order?
It is simple to get to the bios; on my Gigabyte board, I have to press the delete key just as the PC is booting, but other motherboards can choose different keystrokes to get to the bios. You should get the proper manuals with the PC, or you can find them online.
Since you are having a builder put your PC together, I would make sure they are configuring your hard drives as ACHI (as opposed to IDE) and connected to Intel chipset on-board SATA connections. This holds true so far as I know for both SATA I and SATA 3 hard drives. Regarding why, ACHI improves performance and allows for drive features such as command tag queing.
I'm repeating myself, but if I were you, I would be getting 4 drives and doing them as two pairs of RAID 0, which also goes best on Intel ICH controllers and is a variant of the ACHI setting (up from IDE).
If your motherboard happens to have Marvel (or another brand) of SATA 3 SATA ports too, then you will want to make sure that your SSD is connected the best place and in the best way (IDE, ACHI, etc.) for performance. Don't ask me for details, I don't know; but I can share that my first SSD was incompatible with ACHI mode on Intell SATA ports, my second, a pair of Intel X-25M SSDs love the ACHI, and my latest SSDs are SATA 3 are have been reported to work better on Intel (vs. Marvel) ports on some generations of boards and better on Marvel on some very recent motherboard releases. If this sounds confusing, it IS!
hi Jim, thanks for this, and though i dont understand it for the most part, i am sure it is invaluable info, and i will pass it on to the builder:
configure my hard drives as ACHI (as opposed to IDE), and connect to Intel chipset on-board SATA connections because ACHI improves performance and allows for drive features such as command tag queing (whatever that is)
verify that my SSD is compatible with ACHI mode on Intell SATA ports,
and connect the SSD to one of the two SATA 3 6.0 Gb/s connectors by Marvell SE9120 unless these SSDies have been reported to work better on Intel (vs. Marvel) ports
4 disks, i will get, have had this recommended by Harm too, and now by you, so that's that.
As for RAIDing, my choice of motherboard (Asrock extreme4) has a SATA 3 RAID controller. (http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme4&cat=Specifications), so,
if RAIDing, use RAID 0, which also goes best on Intel ICH controllers (??) and is a variant of the ACHI setting (up from IDE)
I have never RAIDed, didnt even know what that is until about a month ago, understand that it's necessary for back mostly, have read and querried the TO RAID OR RAID NOT thread, watched some movies on youtube on how to RAID, and it seems not difficult to do.
So, this is something to consider. Perhaps when i get a better camera....for now i have too much to worry about, that the build will be good - for starters, and then there's Adobe - how to buy CS5.5 Classic Collection - is it possible to download it to the new machine here in Israel, or should i wait for the disks in September (i am back in the USA for a couple months), bring them here, hope they install properly in Israel, Adobe (presales) is saying i cant get support in Israel....this is all too worrying now!