0 Replies Latest reply: Jul 18, 2011 2:57 AM by jhhhhyyyrrrdddbbbggttrecs RSS

    Favorite Sharpening Methods?

    jhhhhyyyrrrdddbbbggttrecs

      <B><FONT COLOR=RED>Copied from the archive, with BUMP  replies weeded out.</FONT></B><br  />=======================================================<br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>Lindas Graphics - 04:29am Jul 23,  2002 Pacific </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Discussion on favorite sharpening methods in Photoshop.<br  /><br />I normally use Unsharp Mask, Amount: 100 / Radius: .5 /  Threshold: 0 -- followed by Fade with Luminosity Mode. Recently I've  started experimenting with the Hi Pass Filter. There seems to be many  different tutorials on sharpening, each one's method slightly different.  I'd be interested in other user's favorite methods and why.<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff>pleader - 05:52am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#1 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />At the pro level  ... well then the answer must be "it depends".<br /><br  />Regards,<br />Victor Lee.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>Mathias  Vejerslev - 07:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#2 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />This is a good starting point:<br  /><br  />http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/11242.html<br  /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>pleader - 07:41am Jul 23, 2002  Pacific (#3 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Mathias,<br /><br />Thanks for that link. Another good  article from Bruce. But I'm a little puzzled by "Figure 1a: Unsharpened"  which to me is clearly sharpened already.<br /><br  />Regards,<br />Victor Lee.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 10:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#4 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002  at 11:34am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Mathias: I remember reading that tutorial in the past but forgot  where it was. Bruce Fraser is one of my favorites when it comes to  Photoshop. I've printed the tutorial along with the follow-up one he  did. I'm glad you posted the link. Thanks!<br /><br />I'm  interested in the methods you people use for sharpening. Does anyone  else use the High Pass Filter?<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias  Vejerslev - 11:30am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#5 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />Yes, I  do. I use the overlay sharpening technique. Sometimes. It really depends  on the subject.<br /><br />For web photos, I often use PS´  USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four  times.<br /><br />If you don´t know what the right radius  setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust  the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower  the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and  re-apply four times.<br /><br />Works for me!<br  /><br />See http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ for  various techniques I´ve recorded, including the overlay sharpening  technique.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr -  12:47pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#6 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 01:48pm  PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I use a  technique that has delivered reliable results for me, for what it's  worth...<br /><br />I convert the image to lab mode, and  make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid  color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian  blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's  finished, I convert back to RGB mode.<br /><br />Its not  original, it's a modification of an action found in PhotoScan Factory  actions found in Xchange. But it produces VERY good results for me on  MOST of the stuff I do.<br /><br />I hope this thread keeps  going as sharpening is of huge iterest to me since my work requires the  removal of moire patterns.<br /><br />[edit] By the way, i  use the high pass filter followed by fade on the textual portions of my  images (black text on a white background) that have been overblurred by  the gaussian blurr filter. It produces some pretty nice results for  me.<br /><br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 06:55pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#7 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Now this is getting interesting. I  appreciate the elaboration. I look forward to trying your techniques and  variation. Thanks Mathias and Tony.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> glen deman -  07:45pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#8 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />You can also sharpen individual  channels. Try sharpening (or unsharpening, I guess it is!) the "weakest"  channel of the image, or the channel with the least detail. I've found  that this will often be the red channel; when you do this, you sharpen  the image but avoid some of the pitfalls of sharpening, like halos and  artifacts. I think I saw this in Photoshop Artistry.<br  />Glen<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Danny Raphael - 09:34pm Jul 23,  2002 Pacific (#9 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 10:37pm PST  </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Here's a no cost  edge sharpening action that's pretty nifty.<br /><br  />Scroll down to the BOTTOM of this page at FredMiranda.com:<br  /> http://www.fredmiranda.com/Action_profilesPage/index.html<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff>YrbkMgr - 10:57pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#10 of 68)  Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:58pm PST</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />Danny,<br /><br />I would say LOW cost, not  NO cost - he's charging $8.50 for the action. Personally, I'll pass.  Thanks for the link though.<br /><br />Peace,<br  />Tony<br /><br />[Edit] DOH! I didn't scroll down far  enough, there's a "lite" version offered for free below the one he  charges for. My mistake, sorry.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mark Reynolds -  05:25am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#11 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Seems fairly pointless - I can almost  tell you what the $8.50 will get; you:<br /><br />Make an  edge mask first using the Find Edges filter on an alpha channel. This  can then be blurred slightly and Levels adjusted. Duplicate the base  layer and run unsharp mask to taste on the duplicate. Load the alpha  channel into a layer mask on the Sharpened layer.<br /><br  />This will sharpen the edges only - very useful for skin tones where  you don't want any accentuation of noise and texture.<br /><br  />The layer mask can also be adjusted (Blur and Levels again, and  Maximum ) to enhance or spread the sharpening.<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>  Mathias Vejerslev - 06:09am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#12 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I´m one of those  that believe that Freds actions, although valuable, are not worth the  money. But I know that a lot of people are willing to pay.<br  /><br />Actually, seeing Fred charging for his actions was a  major motivator for me to develop the digital deluxe action set. - Which  is free ofcourse.<br /><br />Mathias<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Don  Stefanik - 12:02pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#13 of 68) Edited: 24-Jul-2002  at 01:04pm PST</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />And a  great set of actions they are Mathias... I use them quite a bit. They  are one of my favorites.<br /><br />Don<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>  Mathias Vejerslev - 02:13pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#14 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks  Don,<br /><br />Only the de-noise actions are my own  invention, the rest are variations of known techniques, invented by  others. I just recorded and published them.<br /><br  />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Dean Holland - 04:43pm Jul 24,  2002 Pacific (#15 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />An off-the-wall sharpening approach that I use very  occasionally.<br /><br />Sometimes a subject (especially  plain tones) can stand strong amounts of only the light or the dark part  of the USM halo. You can separate them thus:<br /><br  />Duplicate the layer and USM the copy (you can go slightly harder  than normal). Duplicate the copy, and change the blend mode of one copy  to lighten, and the other copy to darken. At 100% opacity for both  copies, you have the normal effect of the USM, but by varying the  opacity of these layers, you can separate the amount of lighter halo and  darker halo the subject gets, allowing slightly more USM than normal  without it looking too crunchy or noisy.<br /><br />I think I  read this in Dan Margulis' Book Professional Guide to Color Correction,  which has an excellent chapter on sharpening with heaps of other  ideas.<br /><br />Warm regards,<br />Dean<br  />[Posted from Australia]<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 05:38pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#16 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Very cool ideas people. I'm enjoying  this and keeping notes for when I can stop long enough to experiment on  different kinds of images.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 12:17pm Jul  30, 2002 Pacific (#17 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 01:28pm PST  </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I'm back and want  to keep this thread alive. Re-reading your posts and think your ideas so  far are interesting.<br /><br />The link Mathias provided  also covers Noise. I think dealing with Noise goes right along with the  topic of Sharpening. I welcome your comments on Noise as well.<br  /><br />I personally try to deal with Noise channel by channel.  As a rule the blue channel seems to have the most Noise. But what I  find tricky is when the sharpest channel (usually green) ends up having  the most Noise, which does happen sometimes.<br /><br />My  method is to use the Median Filter on the Noisy Channel then Fade. If  you do it channel by channel you cannot use Luminosity Mode though --  one advantange of correcting all the channels together.<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 01:07pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#18 of  68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:27pm PST </B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Re Post #5: <<For web photos, I  often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often  four times. If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be,  first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting  untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a  reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four  times. >><br /><br />Mathias: On Web photos I'm  curious why you do the sharpening in quarters instead of all at once. I  assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity  Mode.<br /><br />I am experimenting on a low res photo of an  older person I recently took with my digital camera. I tried it both  ways (all at once and in 4ths) but cannot seem to see any difference  between the two methods.<br /><br />By the way, I'm not  trying to find holes in your methods, on the contrary I think they are  interesting and I'm enjoying the challenge.<br /><br />Oh  yes, and another thing -- Your method of determining Radius is helpful. I  tried that and came up with the same setting you did: .3<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 01:44pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#19 of  68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:46pm PST </B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Okay Tony, it's your turn. )<br  /><br />I'm slowing making my way down the list.<br  /><br />Re: Post #6 << I convert the image to lab mode,  and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to  avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a  gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When  it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode. >><br /><br  />Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run  the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights? If so,  how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter?  And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian  Blur Filter? Just curious.<br /><br />One more thing: I  assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading  the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original  channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this  correct?<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:47pm Jul  30, 2002 Pacific (#20 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />Linda,<br /><br />I have also developed a  noise action that basically medians the L+a+b channels manually, and  applies a 'manual' edgemask. This action demands more selective mask  editing, and more user input, but it is 'stepless' - usable on all ISO  speeds. This action, which is just a classic median de-noiser with a  twitch, is not published yet. The subject of noise is pretty big.. It is  also interesting.<br /><br />Sharpen in four steps Try it  on another image. You really need different sharping for each image.  Examine at 200%. The edge halos in the stepped version is less  pronounced. You can use this stepping method on all the classic filters  and techniques for a better resampled pixel.<br /><br />I  assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity  Mode. I used to do that. Now I sharpen a merged layer and put this in  Luminosity mode to avoid any color shifted pixels, and to keep  everything neat and un-destructed. If I want, I apply an edgemask to  this layer.<br /><br />There´s another method I use. This  method is called <a  href=http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/USM.HTM><FONT  COLOR=ROYALBLUE><U>Real Unsharp  Mask</U></FONT></A> (I´ve got it actionized as well).  It is very nice for certain subjects and contrast enhancements.<br  /><br />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> pleader - 02:55pm Jul 30, 2002  Pacific (#21 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Mathias,<br /><br />There was some mention of actions  that you have for download. I'd like to try them. Where are they  please?<br /><br />Regards,<br />Victor Lee.<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:30pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#22  of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Here:  http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/<br /><br />(I  think its listed in my profile.)<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 03:40pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#23 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Mathias: I tried your "Real Digital  Unsharp Masking" technique on the same photo I was experimenting with  previously. I found at the end that the photo was considerably darker so  I duplicated the original untuched layer, selected Screen Mode and  lowered the opacity to 70%. Above this layer is the layer with the mask  applied in Luminosity Mode, opacity lowered to 50%. Below both layers is  an original untouched layer. The results are good but different from  the other (4 Times) method. I can't tell which is better. Both are good.  I enjoyed seeing how Unsharp Masking works this way.<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>  Mathias Vejerslev - 03:43pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#24 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />The luminosity  switching is the big problem with RUSM. You can control it by  experimenting with setting the brightness / contrast levels, and/or with  a final curves adjustment layer.<br /><br />Mathias<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Dean Holland - 03:46pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#25 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Mathias,<br  /><br />I very much like the Real Unsharp Mark... like  sharpening and a contrast mask in one.<br /><br />Linda...  after hard unsharp masking, I sometimes attack the worst of the noise in  shadows with the "Dust and Scratches" (D&S) filter on a duplicate  of the image. Use a small radius (1-2) and very high threshold (30-60)  to just zap those pixels that have gone way out of line. Use a  luminosity mask to just let the D&S layer show through in the  shadows, otherwise the image will be softened overall. It's similar to  your median approach.<br /><br />Dean<br />[posted  from Australia]<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 03:50pm Jul  30, 2002 Pacific (#26 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />I'll give it a try Dean.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 04:09pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#27 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002  at 05:13pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Dean: That did not work very well on the image I'm experimenting  with. It seems those settings do not produce a very good blur. It actually  seems to produce extra artifacts. I'm just wondering why you might have  chosen those settings.<br /><br />When I use D&S with  Radius 1, Amount 1, Luminosity Mode, Opacity 50% -- It seems to work  better.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> pleader - 05:59pm Jul 30, 2002  Pacific (#28 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Thank you, Mathias.<br /><br />--Victor<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Dean Holland - 08:37pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#29 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br  /><br />Ah... it's probably due to differences in medium. I'm  using 4000dpi scans of 35mm film, often fairly grainy film. Your digital  image probably starts off with less noise, so hard USM doesn't give you  the wacky pixels that I get.<br />Play with whatever settings  seem to work best for you.<br />Good luck!<br />Dean<br  />[posted from Australia]<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr -  10:12pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#30 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Hi Carol...<br /><br />RE:  "Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the  Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights?"<br  /><br />Yes.<br /><br />"If so, how do you  determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then  how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter?  Just curious."<br /><br />I found an action in Adobe  XChange called PhotoScan Factory that contains this technique - it's not  my own. I have had to tweak the glowing edges and gaussian blur  settings from time to time, but in general through trial an error have  found a range of values that I like. So, I run the action with my  tweaked settings, if I don't like it, I run it with the dialog boxes  enabled and adjust more. In general my settings for glowing filters  are:<br /><br />Edge Width 3<br />Edge Brightness  8<br />Smoothness 5<br /><br />Then a gaussian blur of  0.9 to 1.1 is run on the lightness channel copy that had the Glowing  Edges Filter run on it. Then the channel is loaded as a selection, then  deleted.<br /><br />Finally, the glowing edges/blurred  selection is Sharpened at about 180 with a radius of 2.1 and threshold  of 0.<br /><br />After this is done, of course, it's just  clean up with the lightness channel deleted and converted back to RGB  mode.<br /><br />RE" One more thing: I assume you use this  Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the  final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by  deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct?"<br /><br  />Exactly. I have found that by doing it this way, I experience  little or no color shift as compared to most USM techniques.<br  /><br />It is fair to point out the following. Most of my  images have moire patterns - it's the nature of my work. So prior to  running the sharpening procedure, the images are heavily blurred using  gaussian blur (heavily =1.1 - 1.3). Since that is the case, the  sharpening process I use *may* be too strong for some, but is just about  perfect (or as perfect as you can get until I read another cool method  in this thread <grin>) for me.<br /><br />I'll be  reading with interest...<br /><br />Peace,<br  />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:07am Jul  31, 2002 Pacific (#31 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />Dean: You are probably right on target there. I'm  playing around with an image that I've downsized to 72dpi. It does make a  difference. Thanks!<br /><br />Tony: Thanks for all the  helpful information. I've got work to do this morning but will come back  to this conversation again when I get a breather. This is quite  interesting.<br /><br />Linda -- not Carol )<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 01:00pm Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#32 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br  /><br />Linda -- not Carol ) Geeze, I'm sorry - don't know what  I was thinking when I wrote that. You may herein refer to me as  Dolt.<br /><br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 06:36am Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#33 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />LOL -- No problem Tony.<br  /><br />I can't wait to come back to this topic as soon as I  catch up on other things and can give it more attention.<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lexorin - 03:12pm Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#34 of 68)  Edited: 01-Aug-2002 at 04:17pm PST </B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />Just noticed someone already mentioned this...<br  /><br />Convert image to LAB mode.<br />Select the  lightness channel in the channels palette.<br />Run unsharp mask  as you normally would.<br />Revert image back to original  mode.<br /><br />Working on just the lightness channel in  lab mode keeps unsharpmask from sharpening your color values.<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 12:57pm Aug 4, 2002 Pacific (#35 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />It never hurts  to restate something like that Lexorin.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>Lindas Graphics  - 08:21am Aug 6, 2002 Pacific (#36 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Keeping this thread alive. Will be  doing some intensive repairs to my hard drive, followed by  reinstallation of software. I hope to come back to this thread when  things are back to normal.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:18am Aug  8, 2002 Pacific (#37 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />I found aPDF about different methods of  sharpening:<br  />http://www.dimage.org/NewFiles/J.%20Winberg%20Sharpening%20Presenta  tionText.pdf<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 08:20am Aug 9, 2002  Pacific (#38 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Pierre,<br /><br />That was a very nice contribution. I  happen to be saving this thread as sharpening methods are extremely  important.<br /><br />Thanks.<br />Tony<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Enrique Ivern - 11:07am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#39 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre,  thanks...always useful to have a brief cookbook to consult!<br  />Not clear if you're the author...if so, thanks again, if not,  thanks to the unknown author...<br />Cheers.<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>  vEnrique Ivern - 03:11pm Aug 12, 2002 Pacific (#40 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre, I just  printed the whole document....thanks also then to<br />Jack  Winberg, the author.<br />Cheers,<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre  Courtejoie - 12:34am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#41 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />I said I've found it using Google...  I'm still in the learning curve of PS (as EVERY user is ) Maybe one  day...<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 01:06am Aug 13, 2002  Pacific (#42 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />I have to say that I am having some VERY nice results from the  Digital Deluxe action set, specifically the contrast masking, edge  masking, and high pass sharpening.<br /><br />The high pass  sharpening adds that "ever so little" tweak I need after my normal  sharpening methods.<br /><br />Great Actions, Thanks!<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Mathias Vejerslev - 08:37am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#43  of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />You´re  welcome, Tony.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 02:59pm Aug  13, 2002 Pacific (#44 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />I'm so glad to see that you all are still  participating. This is a nice group. Thank you Pierre for the PDF link.  I'm keeping busy and so unable to continue experimenting for now, but  like Tony I'm keeping this thread for future use and reference.<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:11pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#45 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Things have been  hectic at this end. I have no idea when I'll have time to get back to  this topic. Still, I guess I'll try to keep it alive since it contains  so much good stuff.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> dave milbut - 07:20pm Aug 23,  2002 Pacific (#46 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />I've got Kai's PT v6... has anyone had any luck with the equalizer  there for sharpening? Everything seems so drastic when I use it, alot of  contrast sharpening. I'd like to hear from some people who've had more  luck than me 'cuz I think I'm missing something there.<br /><br  />Thans for a great thread, also saving.<br />dave<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 12:48pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#47 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I've got KPT 6  too but never used the Equalizer. I too would be interested in comments  on it. So far I just keep doing the UnSharp Mask method. It works well  for most normal sharpening. Specialized sharpening seems good for  special needs.<br /><br />Noise reduction is often just as  important as sharpening. What's challenging is when you have to deal  with both noise and sharpening on the same photo.<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> dave  milbut - 02:08pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#48 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />For noise reduction (and addition), I'm  really digging the beta of AlienSkin's Image Doctor. I can't wait for  the full package to be released. You can get the beta from their site  and play around with it.<br /><br />dave<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>  Lindas Graphics - 03:59am Aug 26, 2002 Pacific (#49 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks  Dave.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr - 11:05am Sep 9, 2002  Pacific (#50 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />I found this pretty nifty trick from Russell Browns Tips site. A  very nice technique that plays as a QT movie.<br /><br  />http://www.russellbrown.com/body.html<br /><br  />Peace,<br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 04:36am Sep  14, 2002 Pacific (#51 of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br  /><br />Hi Tony. I've been busy dealing with computer problems  in the middle of trying to keep my work going. I've ordered a new Mac  (ducking) so hopefully I will have more time when things start running  smoothly again. Thanks for the link.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> YrbkMgr -  04:39am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#52 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Linda,<br /><br />I too am  keeping a keen eye on this thread and in fact, have made a PDF out of it  since I will have to review it from time to time.<br /><br  />Since the work we do involves removing Moire patterns, sharpening  is of paramount interest <wink>.<br /><br />Get your  new system, have some fun, then... back to work for you!<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:17am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#53 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Yes Sir! )<br  /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 03:55am Sep 17, 2002 Pacific (#54  of 68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Again other  Sharpening tutorials (not new) at:<br /><br  />http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/smart_sharp.shtml<br  /><br />an High-Pass one:<br /><br  />http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/high-pass-sharpening.sh  tml<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT  COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:35am Oct 1, 2002 Pacific (#55 of  68)</B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Thanks Pierre.  I'm swamped. I'll be back again.<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas  Graphics - 06:39am Nov 28, 2002 Pacific (#58 of 68) Edited: 28-Nov-2002  at 06:42am PST </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br  />Maybe some of you might like to comment on an opposite problem.  I've just done a photo correction. That part was easy. Dealing with  noise is the hard part. The noise is out of control. I've tried  targetting individual channels as well as going into Lab Mode but not  getting the best results so far.<br /><br />Here is a <A  HREF=http://www.graphicspalmbeach.com/porfolio/burttracyjohn.html><FO  NT COLOR=ROYALBLUE><U>link to the  page</U></FONT></A> I posted. You can see the noise in  the enlarged eyes portion.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Pierre Courtejoie - 04:16am Nov  29, 2002 Pacific (#59 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 04:17am PST  </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Lindas, When I hear  noise, I think about Mathia's Digital deluxe toolbox...<br  /><br />http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/<br  /><br />there are other non-freeware package for this task...  try also the demo from http://www.neatimage.com/ (stand alone  program)<br /><br />Hey, who's the guy next to Tracy and  John?<br /><br />(on the sharpening side, I found this:  http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/PSTV_downloads.html while  searching for de-noising actions)<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Mathias  Vejerslev - 05:39am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#60 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Thanks Pierre. In this case, I think  NeatImage is the better choice. De-noise Deluxe is aimed at digital  noise, and this seems more like film grain to me.<br /><br  />Mathias<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 06:41am Nov  29, 2002 Pacific (#61 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST  </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />Pierre: Thank you  for the links.<br /><br /><< Who's the guy next to  Tracy and John? >> You got it! )<br /><br />Mathias:  You're right, it is film grain. I had only a photo to work with. It was  scanned on the Epson Expression 1680 at a higher resolution and then  sized.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 07:27pm Dec  15, 2002 Pacific (#62 of 68) Edited: 15-Dec-2002 at 07:27pm PST  </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I've done more  practice on noise by taking the channels apart, giving each one a major  overhaul, then pasting them over the original document's channels.  Trouble is, what looks good on screen looks not so wonderful when  printed. I really want to improve my own PS techniques rather than use a  plug-in.<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Lindas Graphics - 10:21am Jan  10, 2003 Pacific (#63 of 68) Edited: 10-Jan-2003 at 10:22am PST  </B></FONT COLOR><br /><br />I think Mathias'  actions are pretty impressive. It's worth posting his LINK again. One  day I plan to study each action step in detail.<br /><hr  SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff>  YrbkMgr - 09:44am Jan 11, 2003 Pacific (#64 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />I agree with Lindas - Mathias' actions  are part of a process that I use daily; although I've tweaked them a  bit, his concept in sharpening, edge enhancement, and contrast masking  is quite sweet.<br /><br />When I first downloaded his  actions, I posted in a thread my thanks to him as once of them was the  finishting touch that I needed. It's worth repeating the "Thanks!"<br  /><br />Peace,<br />Tony<br /><hr SIZE="1"  NOSHADE><br /><B><FONT COLOR=3333ff> Tenna Sutfin -  09:40am Jan 28, 2003 Pacific (#65 of 68)</B></FONT  COLOR><br /><br />Can you send me your action for ridding  yourself of moire patterns?<br /><br  />drapert@voyager.net<br /><hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE><br  /><B><FONT COLOR=RED>End of Archived  Thread</FONT></B>