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DVD is not the save as BluRay... your AVCHD will be downrezzed to SD to create a DVD
Sorry for the basic questions. My DV camcorder broke in the middle of my sons cross country season and I was forced to buy and new camera & software in a hurry. I have typically made a DVD for the team every year.
If I do purchase a new blue ray burner, and use Premiere Elements 10 with AVI files and AVCHD will this produce a higher quality video for the portions that were captured in HD or does everything go back to the standard definition quality due to the project settings?
It will all go down to standard DVD quality (720x480 NTSC, 720x576 PAL).
Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children
So in the future what happens if I use AVCHD with SP, XP+, FXP, or MXP on different clips. Does it always go to the lowest format quality when you take the project to Blue Ray?
(I am using a Canon HF M41)
I am still trying to figure out whether to shoot in 60i, or PF30, or PF24. So far I have just stuck with 60i.
Is there a format that works best for sports?
Does Premiere Elements edit all these formats?
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Premiere ELements edits all of these formats. What I suggest is to keep the project settings as Full HD AVCHD 1920x1080 (assuming that is the setting of the camera) and then bring DV clips into this one. The AVCHD ones will look just like the original on export; the DV ones might lose some quality. If your camera and the footage are DV-Widescreen, the output quality loss might be lesser.
I am again assuming that you will export to a HD preset....
As VDO Surfer said, I would also go for Full HD AVCHD 1920X1080 since it would give you higher quality. By working in this project you can keep your AVCHD qualities intact.
You are already spoilt by seeing your HD stuff!
I think you will find that the normal old standard DVD player never showed the full capability that stadard def was capable of. You had to get a $1000 player to see it as it really is. So it was never quite as good as component video straight from the camera or seeing it captured on your computer.
Good Blue Ray players play old DVD much better because they are getting everything off the disk that it is capable of.
BlueRay will overtake DVD in the reasonable near future like DVD overtook VCRs so you should make a Blue Ray disk for the future. If other viewers still need DVD you can make a DVD from the HD project.
To make a Blue Ray--
Buy and install a Blue Ray burner in your computer (less than $100)
Setup as a FullHD project 1920x1080 25frames interlaced (or 30 for USA)
Import both clips where you want them. AVI and AVCHD mix well
Sharpening the avi clips a little helps make up for the loss in resolution
Share to a Blue REay disk (make sure the blank disk is fast enough for the burner because Adobe burns only at full speed. If using slower disks then share as a file and use another program to burn the disk (see other posts on this)
To make a DVD (before you buy the BD burner), make anopther copy of your projrct and add about 20% sharpening and share the above project to DVD. It looks a bit poor on your TV but will look pretty well as good as an original DVD made form the AVI clips when viewed on your TV
To make a DVD only, first convert the AVCHD to AVI and sharpen them then make a normal DVD project as everything will now be AVI. The origimnal AVI clips will be better but the HD will obviously be only one quarter of the resolution.
I recently made such a DVD from my Sony $1000 FullHD camera and the DVD copy when played on my Pioneer Blue Ray player on the TV was just as good as old DVDs made with my previous Sony $1800 Widescreen SD camera. The Blue Ray copy of course was brilliant!
The amout of sharpening involves personal preference and depends on how sharp the original material is.
People wilth good eyesight might see it as oversharpening whereas it can look great to those less foertunate or old people not wearing their glasses!
While they may have a reasonable resolution for file detail, some HD cameras dont have a good "depth of resolution" at mid frequencies that represent the upper limit of fine detail for SD cameras. When downsized to SD, the picture from the HD camera can actually be fuzzier than an old SD camera that was tweaked up to look sharp on an old TV.
So you have to add this extra tweaking to comnpensate (a bit like turing up the audio treble control to hear the snare drums on a portable radio)
If destined for viewing on a TV set, the limit of sharpening is where the edges of objects start to crinkle excessively or the video noise becomes excessive. This should be evaluated only on the TV where it will finally be shown and at the TV viewing distance (not on a computer and not too close up)
To avoid wasting blank disks you can make a test disk of the same few scenes with different amounts of sharpening. Try a long shot, mid shot and closeup as the subjecvt material also influences the eye's perception of sharpness.
Thanks for the feedback. I think I came to the same conclusion and this weekend I bought a blue ray burner. LG BH 12LS38.
I have not got a chance to use it on HD yet, I just burned a DVD to make sure it worked.
I did put an order in for some blue ray disc and they are 6X speed. I think that is the fastest media I saw at supermediastore or amazon. (Verbatim 97339 DataLifePlus 25 GB 6x Blu-ray Single-Layer Recordable) Your comment about PE burning at the fastest speed concerns me since the burner is capable of 12X.
Does this mean I will have to get another program to burn the Blue ray or I will sufer some quality loss?
I appreciate your comments on making DVD, because many of the people I make disc for don't have BR. I also have the problem of mixed media this year since my old camcorder died. I have never sharpen a file so I will do some home work.
One caveat on higher-speed blank media:
No DVD, or BD player is certified to play ANY burned disc - only replicated, stamped from a glass master, discs. To insure the greatest playability, as most players WILL play burned discs, I advise against too rapid a burn speed. However, PrE defaults to the fastest possible speed, based on the capabilities of the burner and the speed of the blank media. You have no choice there, so I stick to slower media, or use an authoring/burning app., that allows me to manually choose the speed of the burn. Adobe Encore (only available with PrPro) is my choice, but I already have it and PrPro. With DVD, one can use PrE to Burn to Folder, and then use the great, free ImgBurn, to do the final burning, but PrE has not added the capability to Burn to Folder for BD, so that option is out.
I believe that Sony's DVD Architect (an authoring app.) can both set the speed of the burn, or Burn to Folder. Steve Grisetti, or others, will have to verify this, as I have never used that highly-rated program.
I also advise on buying the best quality blank media possible, and passing on Memorex, newer TDK, newer Ritek, and all "store brands."
For Projects with mixed media, in PrE, I recommend doing a separate Project for each media type, and then Exporting/Sharing each of those in the highest-quality form, to be assembled into a "master Project." I like either the Lagarith, or UT Lossless CODEC's, as outlined in this ARTICLE.
Now, as of PrPro CS 5 (and CS 5.5), Adobe has done some great things, regarding mixed Assets, through the use of its MPE (Mercury Playback Engine) and a CUDA enabled nVidia video card. However, that is ONLY for PrPro, and PrE does not yet have MPE, and makes no use of CUDA. Things might change by next year though?
If you have enough SD material, that you will be needing to up-rez to HD, you might find a program, like Red Giant's Instant HD worth the effort and the $. It gets high marks, but some users have not been impressed enough with the results to buy and use it. It seems to be good, but falls short of great. Much will depend on the footage, to which it is applied.
Yes BNK007, you will have the same trouble using PE9 directly only for reasons stated.
You will have to use another program to do the burning of BD disks like I and others so.
It does not however affect standard (slightly sharpened) DVDs than can easily be burnt directly from the HD edited material using PE9
If your TV player specs say it will play AVC HD or BD burht disksa then it will play them.
The matter of whether it is guaranteed to plkay ALL disks is a matter of the disc, NOT the player.
Unless the burnt pits are "deep" enough then it is a matter of chance whether it will play,
Players vary in sensitivity and laser light output and are only calibrated to read standard "pressed" disks.
If the homemade burnt disks dont have at least the same depth of burning you can hardly blame the player.
You can only blame yourself for trying to burn a 6x blank disk at 12x! (I'd even burn it slower say at 4x)
I used the program that came with my LG burner to burn the disk slower with my edited m2ts file and it looks equal to original camera footage direct to my TV set via HDMI.