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Expecting a PDF export to retain everything in an InDesign document and then to have that retained again when opening that PDF in Illustrator is a pipedream.
That’s just not how it works. In fact, you shouldn’t even be opening that PDF in Illustrator. If you need to edit the file do it in InDesign.
All that said, perhaps you’d like to fill us in on why you want to do this.
I read in some random forums that it was supposed to work (unfortunately I can't find the links now).
Anyway, the reason I want to do this is to be able to use the script below to automatically export all the layers in an InDesign document to .ai files. I then use After Effects to animate these layers to make video intros for magazine pages for the iPad.
You can export layers from InDesign to a PDF file and view them in Acrobat. I've heard that there's a script to export layers to Photoshop.
But not Illustrator.