Auto color automatically destroys the image and does not fix anything. That is why it is always advised to do CC manually. In your case that would mean relying on the scopes almost exclusively.
Thanks for the response Harm.
At the moment I am trying to remove the halogen glow from a clip (I used halogen work lamps to light the indoors). The auto color does it quite nicely but creates strobing. Any specific advice on removing halogen glow? I am having difficulty trying to manually correct it.
I understand manual CC is far superior than auto color. However, because I am inexperienced (and color blind) I would find it helpful if auto color showed you what effects it is using and then I could tweak it from there. Do you know if this is possible?
You may have a strobing problem because of differences in frequency of the electricity net (50 or 60 Hz) and your shutter speed, in which case it is difficult to correct. What was the shooting mode and shutter speed?
I am not sure what you mean. It is shot in SD PAL anamorphic widescreen.
The strobing, which is minor, only happens when I use auto color – I think it's just a limitation of that effect.
Any specific advice on removing halogen glow from a clip? I am having difficulty trying to manually correct it.
I would find it helpful if auto color showed you what effects it is using and then I could tweak it from there. Do you know if this is possible?
Then its back to post 2: dont use auto color.
Try Fast Color Corrector, white balance to get rid of the color cast (if that is what i think it is).
Thanks Ann. Fast color corrector has worked well in other instances. There is not much white in this clip so using white balance with eye dropper isn't ideal.
More experience and normal color vision would be closer to ideal....sadly I am lacking both.
Any other answers to the original question - Is there a way to see exactly what effects auto color is using to achieve its results?
Try eyeballing: giving it a complementary color.
Would it not be nice to be able to extract the WB settings in K from the metadata and be able in post to change it to what you should have done during the shoot.
Say your WB is set to 5600 K, you can extract that from the metadata and with the White Balance effect you can enter a desired setting of say 6100 K. During the shoot you can do that with the Canon XF series, but if you have forgotten to use a warm card instead of the white balance card, this would be a great effect to have.
This might help the OP as well, since the color temp of the halogen lights may have been completely different than a Tungsten setting would show. Halogen lights for normal use are around 2800 - 3000 K, but it is not unthinkable that building lights use a color temperature around 5500 K.
The "strobbing" in the Auto correction Effects, Color, Levels, Highlight & Shadow, seems to appear, whenever there is any change in lighting/exposure. They appear to work pretty well with a locked-down camera, with manual exposure, no change the WB and not change to lighting. However, if there is any change, then the strobbing occurs. It reminds me of the old days, with servo-apertures in early auto-exposure lenses, where when the lighting changed, even just a bit, the auto-exposure function would "seek," until it zeroed in on the aperture setting that satisfied its circuits. That "seeking" cause a strobbing, or pulsing, and was very off-putting. Auto-exposure is much better nowadays, and this is seldom seen, or at least noticed. Still, manual exposure is always better.
Not sure where one would get that "under the hood" look at Auto Color though.
Harm has a great idea in post 8, and that would be very helpful.
Join me in a feature request. I have filed it.
Of course keyframable. The data are present in the recorded metadata, at least for the XF series, even in AWB mode, so they can be extracted and then it is a simple slider interface to modify the white balance in K. For cameras that do not have these metadata, the effect could be greyed out.
Thanks Ann, reading about eyeballing now.
Harm - yes, a simple slider to change the white balance would be good. Anything 'simple' is good for me right now.
Thanks for the reply Bill. Part of the problem in this instance is the clip I shot did not have a manual white balance set. It seems that the strobing is worst when PP's auto color and my camera's auto white balance are competing with each other.
Lots of useful info here, thanks all. Still hopeful that I can get a more definitive answer to my original question -
Is it possible to get an "under the hood" look at Auto Color to see exactly what effects it is using to achieve its results?